Thread: Which better strop treatment: Neatsfoot or Mink Oil?

My problem is I forget to do even a palm rub. But I'm old school - I currently shave with a sharpened clam shell I found on my honeymoon in Tahiti. It replaced my Ralf Aust...

I have used Fromm strop dressing & it worked well. I just finally got some Ballistol & it says it works on leather. Used it on an old cheap leather strop that was real dried out. Put a fairly heavy coat on first & let it soak over night. Hand rubbed it the next morning & wiped it off with a cloth. Wiped a thin coat on then hand rubbed it & let it sit over night. The strop is supple now & works good. Said what the heck & used it on both of my Shell horsehide strops using the same method as on the cowhide strop & I LOVE the feel of the strop's! No problems with the leather so far., it has been 2 weeks & I have to say I am a happy camper!






Slawman

Does it leave any residue?
I've got some Ballistol and some old strops and might try this

Originally Posted by Slawman

I have used Fromm strop dressing & it worked well. I just finally got some Ballistol & it says it works on leather. Used it on an old cheap leather strop that was real dried out. Put a fairly heavy coat on first & let it soak over night. Hand rubbed it the next morning & wiped it off with a cloth. Wiped a thin coat on then hand rubbed it & let it sit over night. The strop is supple now & works good. Said what the heck & used it on both of my Shell horsehide strops using the same method as on the cowhide strop & I LOVE the feel of the strop! No problems with the leather so far., it has been 2 weeks & I have to say I am a happy camper!






Slawman

I flew to Portugal a few weeks ago with my SRD kangaroo strop in my toiletries bag... some of my cologne spilled and got the bottom of the strop and it had completely dried it out by the time I opened the toiletry bag, leaving the leather very dry and slightly wrinkled (from removing the oils in it, I imagine). The bottom was definitely unusable for stropping in that condition and the only natural oil I had easily available was extra virgin olive oil, which I used on it, returning it to a usable state, just slightly darker than the rest of the strop. I can't sense any difference in texture or draw from the untreated part and am thinking of using the olive oil on the whole thing to make it one consistent color.

I have found no residue. I rubbed it in pretty well by hand so that might make a difference. I have never been able to find it close to me but Gander Mountain now carries it. Just got the small non aerosol can & it was a little over $10.00 with tax. You don't need much & it works well for so many things.
The thing about olive oil & vegetable oils is they can go rancid & get gummy so I wouldn't use them myself.

Slawman

O.K. I am getting a new strop within five days. I have an old General Cronk strop well beyond its years, maybe 25 to 30. On the linen side I used a commercial powder but changed to using food grade diatomaceous earth. The only difference I note is the price relative to quantity. I am wondering if powder is best. It makes cleaning the linen side up very easy, using a vacuum with a bristle to loosen the lodged powder. I have a conditioner I bought for the leather side. When I use the conditioner the draw of the blade has a high drag coefficient, high resistance. I don't want to screw up this strop, it was $91, a lot for an old man on a restricted retirement income. You mention oils from the palm of your hand. Problem, my hands are dry. I have searched this site for information on prepping a strop but cannot find it if it exists. I am desperate for information before the strop comes in. Help!

What does one do if you have dry hands?

I rub in a bit of Bick 4 leather conditioner a few times a year. That, and palm rubbing in-between seems to keep them fine.

I could caution on neetsfoot oil. Too much will make a gooey mess, FME

I have one of my strops that a few years ago I put way too much neatsfoot oil on, big mistake. Since then I stopped using it because it's oily and slippery, lost it's "draw". I tried wiping it down with dry towel every day, a wet towel, my hands, paper towel, newspaper, still so oily. Is there any way to make it usable again?

Without touching a piece of leather I give this advice with caution. Alcohol dries out the surface. Let's say I was going to dye a piece that had already been tanned. I would use denatured alcohol and rub the dickens out of it. May have to do it several times. You NEVER want to soak leather in anything. Neetsfoot oil should be used in drops only and I never advise that for rookies to leather. Liquid glycerin is all I ever use on leather for conditioning and cleaning. I have a saddle that is over 150 years old. still ride in it. It gets horse sweat,dirt,beer,water, mud, you name it. I wipe it off with the liquid and put it away. Leather is dead skin. After tanned you should only need to clean it and use it.