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Thread: Given a cow
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12-10-2011, 06:40 AM #11
When you called and said you got a cow I was SO confused. But now it makes sense. That should be cool to play with.
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12-10-2011, 08:34 AM #12
All I can suggest is the cuts lengthwise along the spine will make for the best strops. That's all I got for ya.
The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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The Following User Says Thank You to onimaru55 For This Useful Post:
Dllandry (12-10-2011)
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12-10-2011, 03:07 PM #13
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12-17-2011, 06:13 PM #14
Gentleman,
the lady that sold me the original leather has given me two more pieces of leather and I have a few questions before I ruin anything. The two pieces are thinner than the first and more supple. One looks like the leather you would find a coat made of I think. The second is very thin smooth and supple. Can anyone tell me if I need to do anything to the leather before I start cutting strops out of it, and if so what? I have neetsfoot oil and some Fromm strop dressing. There are three pics of each hide one far one close and one of the back. The first one was stored folded and the second was rolled up in a tube. I will answer any questions that you guys may have. She also gave me an Underwood typewriter with the original travel case since I like old things, the darn thing still works and the ribbon is not worn out.
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12-17-2011, 06:15 PM #15
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12-17-2011, 08:30 PM #16
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Thanked: 3164The first batch of pics look like the leather comes from the shoulder or the side of the animal. Should be around 3 - 4.5mm thick. If it goes into the side (or skirt) at the ragged ends, it will be softer there.
There is no 'shell' in bovine leather, please note.
You will have to make sure that the leather is consistent across the strop - not partly hard, partly soft, or thick/thin. You also have to avoid wrinkles, scars and marks that would mar the surface of the strop. It looks like the leather has been around for a while and dried out a bit, making it harder. You could rub it with neatsfoot (don't use too much) on the back, then stack it, back to back and leave it for a while to see if it will soften. Personally I would cut out the viable strop lengths and then treat them if necessary.
It might be a better idea to cut a sample strop from each leather and use it - it may become more supple with use, then you will have spared yourself the uncertainty of oiling the leather.
Split hide is quite thin - a thick leather - say 5mm - goes through a splitter to cut it into two pieces of the same surface area but each half as thin as the original. The top surface has the original natural grain, but the other piece has to be treated in some way to make it look like it has a top layer again - they usually spray it with a fake surface, roll it and then imprint a grain in it, so it is usually unsuitable for strops - the top layer may be plastic-like.
The shiny stuff is either skived (thinned) or a clothing grade, perhaps used for the panels in a saddle that receive less wear.
Regards,
Neil
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12-17-2011, 08:45 PM #17
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Thanked: 481Is there Anything Neil doesnt know?!?
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12-17-2011, 09:22 PM #18
Thank you Neil, I think I will cut them into strops first as you suggested and then try one of each before treating the leather. The first batch of pics that leather is stiff it reminded me of Holli's SRD's bridle strop. Thanks again at least if I mess up making the first couple I still have a lot of leather to learn with. I could always get the rest of the hides she has as she put it "cluttering up her house". Those last three pics that stuff is as supple as my SRD buffalo strop, so I will most likely not experiment with that hide yet. The shiny one might be skived as some of the color has come off in one or two places and underneath doesn't look like the other two hides.
V/r
DuaneLast edited by Dllandry; 12-17-2011 at 09:24 PM.
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12-19-2011, 09:44 PM #19
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Thanked: 11Looks like your gonna have plenty of strops if it works out. I cant offer any advice as I know next to nothing on the subject, but good luck!!!
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Dllandry (12-20-2011)