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Thread: Dovo Yellow Strop paste?

  1. #11
    Senior Member welshwizard's Avatar
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    I used too much of the yellow on my 1st Dovo strop. With hindsight I shouldn't have used any. In normal use, once every couple of years if at all, for the yellow paste. Just rub the strop with your palm, that is grease enough.
    'Living the dream, one nightmare at a time'

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    Has anyone ever tried to paste over a different paste?

    I have a yellow pasted strop and a red pasted strop and was thinking about trying to paste over the yellow with green and then buying a new strop to use as a normal plain one.

    Any ideas? Would I need to clean the yellow off or could I simply just put the red ontop? From what I read online it looks like saddle cleaner works pretty well to get paste off.

  3. #13
    Junior Member grommit's Avatar
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    Hello guys,
    I've done some reading up on strops and pastes.
    I suppose I just need reassurance on what paste to use.
    I am just about to purchase a Dovo leather & canvas strop.
    What paste do I use for the every day on bothe the leather and the canvas.
    Am I right in saying strop using the leather side first then the canvas for the polish?
    Further to that I'm getting my favourite str8 razor sent off for honing
    Thanks for looking,
    Bri

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by grommit View Post
    What paste do I use for the every day on both the leather and the canvas.
    Am I right in saying strop using the leather side first then the canvas for the polish?
    No, it's canvas first then leather. The progression is always roughest to smoothest.

    As well, I'm not convinced that paste of any kind should be used on a daily basis, ESPECIALLY the abrasive types. The specific paste discussed in this thread, Dovo Yellow, is apparently a conditioner as opposed to a sharpener, yet even that shouldn't be a daily necessity. The general concensus is that the most a strop needs is a daily rubbing with the palm of your hand as the natural oils will be sufficient.

  5. #15
      Lynn's Avatar
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    I've actually seen more damage done with that paste than good. Most people gunk it on which causes all kinds of fun when trying to strop. I agree with Ryan that only hand rubbing should be sufficient.

    Have fun.
    Geezer and earcutter like this.

  6. #16
    (John Ayers in SRP Facebook Group) CaliforniaCajun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grommit View Post
    Hello guys,
    I've done some reading up on strops and pastes.
    I suppose I just need reassurance on what paste to use.
    I am just about to purchase a Dovo leather & canvas strop.
    What paste do I use for the every day on bothe the leather and the canvas.
    Am I right in saying strop using the leather side first then the canvas for the polish?
    Further to that I'm getting my favourite str8 razor sent off for honing
    Thanks for looking,
    Bri
    Out of indecision this is what I did.

    1. No foreign substance on my strop. My first strop lasted two years and stayed supple without as much as a hand rub.
    2. I ordered one balsa laptop strop covered with chromium oxide to experiment with this substance.
    3. I ordered another balsa laptop strop covered with diamond slurry to experiment with that substance.


    Here's where I ordered the balsa strops: Balsa Laptop Strop. It's not that expensive and doesn't put my leather strop at risk.

    I really think you should try something like this. At the end of the day I just couldn't tamper with my hanging strop, either the linen or the leather. Until I know better this is the way I'm going to go.

    I also received this e-mail from Ron at Star Shaving Supplies:

    "I have the same stones [Norton 4k/8k and 12k] and then I use a Balsa strop loaded with Chromium oxide 50-60,000 grit and then I use a Felt strop loaded with Diamond slurry 70-80,000 grit and then the Leather strop which the English Bridle gives 90-110,000 grit so I get most all debris that causes dullness and the edge is scarry sharp. You use the Balsa and the Felt like you do on the Leather strop."

    Ron and I disagree on loading up the leather strop with lather and neatsfoot oil, and you'll notice in the e-mail he uses the diamond slurry on the felt side of his strop whereas I opted to have it applied to a balsa strop.

    Straight razor shaver and loving it!
    40-year survivor of electric and multiblade razors

  7. #17
    Junior Member grommit's Avatar
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    Guys
    I'm so greatful for the advice,
    Sometimes info overload kicks in, so better to ask, no such thing as a dumb question...well if u don't know it that is!
    Great advice in the daily use strop with the canvas first then the leather n rubbing with the palm of your hand daily.
    Final question that I'm sure will have multiple answers n individual preferences.
    Once I receive my honed str8 back how long should it be b4 I strop,and when I do how many passes on canvass then leather on average.
    I already test my custom knives on my arm hairs for sharpness but thes beasts gonna bite!
    Cheers again,
    Bri

  8. #18
    (John Ayers in SRP Facebook Group) CaliforniaCajun's Avatar
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    Unless the person who honed the razor said otherwise, I would strop before the first shave and every shave. How much to strop is something that people do according to their comfort level. What's right for you will be determined with time and experience. I'd say a basis from which to start is 25 on the fabric and 50 on the leather. That sounds to me as a compromise between not enough and too much among experienced people. Re-honing is needed when the shaves decline in quality.
    grommit likes this.

    Straight razor shaver and loving it!
    40-year survivor of electric and multiblade razors

  9. #19
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    Wink Sticky Stuff

    As I've always understood it the yellow paste is to make the strop a bit sticky. There's a German word for it but it escapes me at this time. This is the absolute last phase of the honing process right before you shave. After applying the paste let it dry for a while. Then drag the razor along the strop. This will straighten out any microscopic "Waves" the finite edge may have. Kind of like when some kid has his mohawk straight up in the air.
    The tackiness will slightly grab and straihten it out. Remember to "Pull" and not push the blade and with only the weight of the blade. Use somewhere about 10-15 stokes for each side.
    The other pastes are for the actual honing phase with you "pushing" the blade. The white is for the linen and puts a very fine "sandy" surface. They all have some form of "grit" to them.
    If all else fails I think the best thing to do is buy the Russian Leather strops. They're a little more expensive but the leather side never needs dressing, it has a natural tack to it.

  10. #20
    barba crescit caput nescit Phrank's Avatar
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    I would agree that hand rubbing should be all you need.

    There are two exceptions I'm aware of, that applied in my case

    I purchased a Illinois #827 strop from the Classic Edge and it was advised the strop should be initially conditioned with Fromm Strop Conditioner. This I did.

    The only other time I've used the strop conditioner, was when one of my strops was literally completely dried out due to the lack of humidity. I applied two treatments, the strop literally drank it up, and renewed the surface to provide some feedback. Other than that, hand rubbing has worked well for me.
    Last edited by Phrank; 01-03-2014 at 01:52 PM.

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