Results 11 to 20 of 25
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02-04-2013, 06:43 AM #11
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Thanked: 522Art stores often have balsa in 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch thick. As someone stated above, use a quality adhesive and apply the balsa to a three inch ceramic tile.
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02-04-2013, 06:50 AM #12
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Thanked: 13245Correct me if I am wrong here, but I thought you wanted the thinner Balsa and to have it suspended so it would have a tiny bit of flex ????
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02-04-2013, 07:09 AM #13
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Thanked: 522Just an aside; you can bevel the edges of the balsa wood just the same way as you would bevel a freshly lapped stone.
Jerry
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02-04-2013, 03:07 PM #14
YES I use that type of balsa strop for CroOx. It works nicely. Most guys use a piece of Balsa glued to a base for diamond pastes, etc. I found that the thicker a piece gets, the harder the surface. Thinner ones are softer and work best, IMO. I have one on a hard base with 9.0 diamond paste which greatly lowers the scratches after the DMT and before going to the hones. Works quite well!
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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02-04-2013, 05:06 PM #15
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Thanked: 25Well I've got chromium oxide an iron oxide pastes that I do use as well on the balsa strop. I'm just a bit confused about a good base that I could use for my pastes. I know I could buy another piece of balsa but even the thicker stuff worries me now that my first one has warped.
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02-04-2013, 05:14 PM #16
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Thanked: 13245http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...trop-hone.html
These are still my go to pasted strops, I made them 3+ years and have never had an issue since, I have one with CrOx one with CeOx and one with a beautiful tanned leather that Mark/speedster got from White Boots in Spokane that I have still not pasted..
They cost me less then $12 each to make not including the one that Mark got the leather for free they are long and flat yet still give just that tiny bit of flex that I like.. Just a thought for you, call a local shoe repair shop and ask them what they would sell you a 3x24 piece of Boot tanned leather for..Last edited by gssixgun; 02-04-2013 at 05:22 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
Speedster (02-04-2013)
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02-04-2013, 05:23 PM #17
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Thanked: 2027I think the problem is in the construction,Have built many paddles and have never had the issues the O.P refers to.
As Glen said,Use Dap contact cement on a well sanded surface (the brush on kind).
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02-04-2013, 05:41 PM #18
Yes, I never had any issues with it "curling". Here are the ones I spoke of, a suspended piece with the green and one glued down with 3M trim adhesive with 9.0 diamond. I have washed, sanded and repasted the diamond one 3 times over the years as it becomes black!
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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02-04-2013, 05:44 PM #19
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Thanked: 13245Yep that top one was EXACTLY what I was thinking of Tom, that is what I would build if I were to make a Balsa strop
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
sharptonn (02-04-2013)
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02-04-2013, 05:51 PM #20
It works well with the green. It is easy to "tune". Stiffer as both ends are tightened, loosen one end or both for more limber action. I just leave both ends loose and strop lightly. Somehow, I think if used with diamond or more aggressive stuff, tighter would be better, though.
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.