Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 32
Like Tree79Likes

Thread: 3 Panel MOP Scales Project

  1. #11
    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    I'm Gonna Spend Another Fall In Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,919
    Thanked: 495

    Default

    What a wonderful job, And great step by step process.
    Thanks,

  2. #12
    Senior Member str8fencer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Oslo Norway
    Posts
    1,848
    Thanked: 438

    Default

    Oh my, what a job! I can't wait to see the rest of this story, I am certain those are going to be stunning.
    Thank you for sharing

  3. #13
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lone Star State
    Posts
    25,877
    Thanked: 8589

    Default

    Nice work! As having worked often with old, lined mop-paneled scales, I would recommend keeping adhesive from the joints between the panels. They need somewhere to flex a bit! It should turn out great!
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

  4. #14
    Brad Maggard Undream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Adrian, Michigan
    Posts
    879
    Thanked: 693

    Default

    Update!

    So, I took the scales off of the clamps, and then I scraped off all of the paper that was super glued on the nickel sheeting. Then, I took my 1/16" Drill bit and drilled right through all of the holes that were in the nickel sheeting straight through the 3 MOP panels on the other side. This made it so that the holes were perfectly positioned. Obviously I have quite a bit of excess MOP material hanging off the sides. that is OK though!



    Then, I sanded the MOP side flat with my disc sander. This ground down the excess nickel sheeting that was sticking out on the panel dividers.



    I was then able to do the whole thing over again on the other side. I trimmed up the MOP pieces to the correct dimensions, and then epoxied them in place, starting with the center piece:



    And then I put in my nickel panel dividers and epoxied in the other two panels:



    You can see the dividers sticking out. All that excess material will go away after it sets up!



    Thats it for tonight!

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Undream For This Useful Post:

    JBHoren (07-25-2013), NoseWarmer (01-15-2015)

  6. #15
    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Baden, Ontario
    Posts
    5,475
    Thanked: 2284

    Default

    I can't wait to see the final product. You'r work is always so clean Brad.
    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

  7. #16
    Senior Member bongo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Perth, West Australia
    Posts
    1,431
    Thanked: 497

    Default

    Brad, this is a fascinating process and a great tutorial in itself !!....Looking forward to the conclusion.
    Bongo

  8. #17
    Brad Maggard Undream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Adrian, Michigan
    Posts
    879
    Thanked: 693

    Default

    Here we go!

    First, I unclamped the scales. The epoxy set extremely solid.



    I took it to the belt sander, and flattened out the pile side scale



    After that, I used the pre-drilled holes on the front scale to drill through the pile side scale.



    I then did some more profiling with the belt sander, and when I started getting close to my original tracings, I took the original scale and I bolted it on to the the MOP scales so that I had an exact profile to match.



    You can see a little bit of excess material that I had to grind down.



    After a little more sanding, I was close to the original profile



    You can see no overhangs now


  9. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Undream For This Useful Post:

    JBHoren (07-25-2013), NoseWarmer (01-15-2015)

  10. #18
    Brad Maggard Undream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Adrian, Michigan
    Posts
    879
    Thanked: 693

    Default

    Then, I spent about 30 minutes on the belt sander, very carefully and slowly thinning out the scales (they started around .125" ea, and I thinned them to approx .11"). MOP chips easily, and sands slowly, so, it was a delicate process.



    So, it was on to hand sanding. I started at 220 grit and went to town.



    With every grit, it got prettier and prettier



    After a buff, I was just stunned!



    Unfortunately, there was no time to enjoy. it was on to the next step. I started to carefully pin the panels on to the nickel liners, one hole at a time



    After each of them were pinned, I buffed up the heads on the MOP side



    Then I ran some 1000 grit sandpaper along the back side of the scales (the nickel sheeting, and then gave them a quick buff. A final buff will come later.


  11. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Undream For This Useful Post:

    JBHoren (07-25-2013), NoseWarmer (01-15-2015)

  12. #19
    Brad Maggard Undream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Adrian, Michigan
    Posts
    879
    Thanked: 693

    Default

    That's it for today! Still a few steps to go!


  13. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Undream For This Useful Post:

    Geezer (07-25-2013), JBHoren (07-25-2013), NoseWarmer (01-15-2015)

  14. #20
    Bladesmith by Knight Adam G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Murrumba Downs, Queensland, Australia.
    Posts
    571
    Thanked: 203

    Default

    Stunning stuff Brad.
    When you pinned the MOP to the liners, did you peen with a hammer or flare them with a pin press? Just curious.
    Really excellent results. Be proud.
    Adam

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •