Thread: i knocked the corner off my razor... advice?

Hi All,
Somehow, I managed to drop my razor the other day while shaving. And though I wasn't hurt... the razor wasn't so lucky. See the pics below for the actual damage.

I realize this is a significant chip (if you can even still call it a chip), and will require a major repair. Since the damage is so significant, and the razor wasn't that expensive to begin with, I'd probably end up paying more to repair it than to just replace it. So, I'm interested in trying it myself. You've got to learn sometime, right?

I have a Norton India fine/coarse combo stone and an Arkansas stone that I've used with great success on kitchen and pocket knives... I've just never done anything more than stropping with straights, though.

My plan would be to try to mute/round the toe with the coarse stone, and eventually work back to hone it w/ the Arkansas. Any thoughts/advice?

Thanks,
~Tyler

There is a thread on here (Looking) that I show exactly how to use a sharpie/magic marker to see what would be the "Safest" grind for tip repairs..

You can use near any type of grinder to do them just so long as you go slow and do NOT overheat the blade...

ps: More pics with a relation to the scales would help


Found it

http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...gold-edge.html

Thanks. I'll take a few more pics when I get home today. I was having trouble with the focus on the blade and didn't feel like breaking out the "real" camera.

You could round point that and the blade would only be 1/8 inch shorter.

Originally Posted by eod7

You could round point that and the blade would only be 1/8 inch shorter.

Would a Dremel work for that? I read something on another site about that. They were totally hacking those Gold Dollar razors until they didn't even look the same any more.

Why would anyone want a "barber notch"? Doesn't look like it really has a function and it looks like it would weaken the blade. That's one of the things they do to them, apparently.

Isn't that hardened steel? Like in tools? I know a file can hardly scratch it. Seems like it would just dig up a sharpening stone pretty bad.

Would grinding near the edge mess up the temper? When I try to sharpen tools and knives on a grinder, the steel turns blue and it never holds an edge any more.

I used my dmt and a pseudo-breadknife stroke to fix the toe on a vintage Dovo, it's not quick, but you can be sure you're not heating up the blade.

Those spines are tough to cut through, but the advice on round toe-ing it is what I would do to it, the thin steel I would go by hand on the DMT.

I'd use a dremel and a drum wheel. On a stone it will take ages if you want to re-profile the toe.
I've done it several times to fix broken toes, and always turned out well.

I changed the profile of a few razors with a Dremel as well, successfully. I used the marker in the same way Glen did and kept the razor wrapped in a wet rag. Bruno's advice on using a drum wheel is probably better than my way of roughly cutting off the point and then switching to a drum wheel, but cutting worked for me without bluing the steel by going slowly.

If you decide to wrap it in a wet rag as I did, note that the Dremel may catch it and become wrapped up itself. It happened to me a few times without any consequences because I had the razor pinned down securely. If not, the razor would have been sent spinning somewhere.
Also, I strongly advice to dull the edge on glass prior to beginning and still treat it as if it was sharp. You may be able to strop it back to (nearly) shave-sharp after dulling on glass, though I have no experience with that myself.

This is my Black Diamond Junior, with ivory scales, that had a little work done after a break.