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09-19-2013, 08:01 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- bakersfield ca
- Posts
- 160
Thanked: 0help with my first restore needed
so i paid 8 bucks for a ja henckels and the handle and rear of the razor is in great shape but the top and front are heavily rusted so its gonna be a challenge and might not make it.... however it was cheap and this is my first restore.... this being said it is still a henckels so i want it to come out in the end if possible since its high end. my issue is i couldnt exactly find all the sandpaper i needed so i want to know if this progression of paper will work and if not what i need or should and shouldnt use for what i have, i have 60 100 150 220 500 1000 and 1200 what should i use and in what order from fist to last? thanks any help appreciated-john
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09-19-2013, 08:58 PM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada
- Posts
- 14,439
Thanked: 4827well presuming by the no pictures that it is a worthy restore. I often start with deciding to start with the scales on or off. Iff they are badly damaged they will be of no help keeping a grip on the blade so in those cases I dith the scales right away. I cut my sand paper into strips and wrap them around a cork and start progressing through the grits. Rarely would I dip below 220 grit. I use an 8X visor to make sure that I get all the pitting and fly specs off. Sometimes it will look good and I will go up a grit or two and a fly spec may show back up, and which point drop down and then come back up. I always go to 1500 because that is what I can get for paper locally. On the horizon I will be picking up a buffer to finish the polish on all the razors I've taken that far. Even with the high grit 2 and 3000 paper when I can get it it still isn't up to what I want, hence the buffer. If I use a dremel it is only to clean the jimps. The jump from 220 to 500 is a very big jump and it will take a long time to get the scratch pattern to cover. Many little steps is always better. The cork is a very good option. At some point most scales come off because there is usually that little bit under and near the scales that are otherwise impossible. Good luck.
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09-19-2013, 09:27 PM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- bakersfield ca
- Posts
- 160
Thanked: 0it broke on the end where the heavy rust was at i figured it would damn....
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09-20-2013, 12:03 AM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada
- Posts
- 14,439
Thanked: 4827I've f'd up a few blades. One by being fumble fingers. Blue diamond 5/8 in pretty mint condition that I dropped on a concrete floor, it shattered like glass. The other was a beautiful Kropp 7/8 in very nice shape except for a rust tang that I managed to crack the blade on through great personal stupidity. I'm sure that is not my last or yours. Take your lumps and move on.