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Thread: How to efficiently cut slabs for scales?

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AirColorado How to efficiently cut slabs... 10-11-2013, 02:39 PM
skipnord I use a band saw with a rip... 10-11-2013, 03:07 PM
eod7 You can buy thin kerf blades... 10-11-2013, 03:09 PM
pixelfixed You can buy zero curf... 10-11-2013, 03:19 PM
skipnord My fence is a piece of 1x2... 10-11-2013, 03:41 PM
Geezer I agree with Pix, I use a mag... 10-11-2013, 03:42 PM
MikekiM Exactly what I do. I might... 10-26-2013, 12:48 AM
RoyalCake Yes bandsaw. I got a jet... 10-11-2013, 04:12 PM
Fort +++++band saw I have three... 10-26-2013, 01:01 AM
pixelfixed sort of spendy,but this tool... 10-26-2013, 01:05 AM
Geezer After slabbing plates off, I... 10-26-2013, 02:15 AM
Qatsats Most of us suffer from... 10-12-2013, 01:15 PM
bridger I'm a woodworker who tinkers... 11-08-2013, 02:53 AM
IndependenceRazor1 The problem I have with... 01-02-2014, 04:26 PM
pixelfixed Maybe another option,they... 01-02-2014, 04:30 PM
Atchbo Had anyone ever used a... 10-12-2013, 10:15 PM
RezDog I am absolutely certain that... 10-12-2013, 10:20 PM
HARRYWALLY Japanese pull saws are... 10-12-2013, 10:45 PM
AirColorado Well thanks gents! That's a... 10-16-2013, 10:00 PM
Geezer I remember a post where... 10-12-2013, 10:30 PM
  1. #1
    Senior Member AirColorado's Avatar
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    Default How to efficiently cut slabs for scales?

    This is one I've been trying to work out for a while without buying yet another piece of machinery. I'll buy more equipment if it'll solve this, but before I do I thought I'd run it by the forum since most of you have probably already solved the issue.

    I have a few boxes of exotic hardwood pieces that are all in various shapes - from 3/4" thick up to 8" and larger - as well as some thick pieces of other materials. I'll sometimes just use my compound saw to cut a few slabs for scales but the kerf of those blades are almost as thick as what the final scale will be - and that just seems like a terrible waste of wood. Tried using the scroll saw but that gets uneven slabs since I can't figure out how to make a good ripping guide for it. That results in almost as much waste as a result of sanding to get the slabs flat. Hand sawing using a very thin blade works, but again, uneven slabs.

    So, does anyone have an approach that results in 1/8 to 3/16 thick wood slabs that doesn't involve a kerf that's just as thick? Couldn't find a thread on this at first look but there may be one in here that I can't see. Seems like a little table saw that uses a really thin blade would work but I can't find one online and Woodcraft doesn't seem to have what I need.

    On a side note, I've had RAD and HAD for years, but this may simply be a symptom of some "restoration equipment acquisition syndrome" as well as signs of "scales material acquisition syndrome" as well.

    Mike

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    I use a band saw with a rip blade. Ripping thin stock with a compound miter saw is an accident waiting to happen - can't recommend that to anyone. Not a good idea on a table saw either. If you are serious about this, get a band saw. Used ones are available at reasonable prices. Good luck. I share your TAD.

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    Senior Member eod7's Avatar
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    You can buy thin kerf blades that will greatly reduce your waste.
    One time, in band camp, I shaved with a Gold Dollar razor.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    You can buy zero curf blades,but be carefull,they can bite you
    as above a bandsaw is is the best tool for slabbing.You can find a used rockwell delta (american made) for cheap and rebuild it for less than 50 bux.Than you need a good fence.
    Sadley my fence cost more than my bandsaw
    Last edited by pixelfixed; 10-11-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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    My fence is a piece of 1x2 and 2 C clamps.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    Quote Originally Posted by skipnord View Post
    My fence is a piece of 1x2 and 2 C clamps.
    That works to a point,Great idea Richard

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    I agree with Pix, I use a mag base that I can move and lock down on the table so I can slice some slightly bent stock and blocks. Horn slabs are often bent a bit~

    ~Richard
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    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
    I agree with Pix, I use a mag base that I can move and lock down on the table so I can slice some slightly bent stock and blocks. Horn slabs are often bent a bit~

    ~Richard
    Exactly what I do. I might think the same technique could work for a scroll saw, but it would certainly be using the saw in a way it wasn't designed to be used. Resawing stock into thin slabs is the domain on the bandsaw.

    My question is in regards to the next step... The final thinning.

    So I resaw a pair of thin slabs so they are bookmatched. But I want to thin them down further and remove any blade scrub. Do most of you do the thinning by hand with a plane, hand held belt sander or bench sander? That leaves a fair amount of work to make sure they are the same thickness.

    I've been trying to think of a way to run them through a surface planer to be sure the thickness is the same. Possibly adhere them to a larger piece as a carrier block and pass the whole thing through the planer? Am I trying to over engineer this? I know there is something to be said for hand work, but I have the tools and could surface plane a dozen slabs down to under .1 in the time it takes to hand sand just one.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Love new things that look old, and old things, made to look new again!

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    No that's not me in the picture RoyalCake's Avatar
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    Yes bandsaw. I got a jet (horizontal) from Amazon that shipped free, etc. It has a vertical mode and I clamp a piece of stock to get the cutting depth you want as others have said.
    I know it's another expense, but once you have that bandsaw you won't know how you did without it, especially if you are cutting metal stock.
    Geezer likes this.
    I love living in the past...

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    Senior Member Fort's Avatar
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    +++++band saw

    I have three but the one I use most is a $130 saw. bands are cheep.
    here is a link:9 in. Bench Top Band Saw
    This thing is a work horse. It forgives me if I leave it be for months. I clean the rubber on the wheels with a paper towel and my finger nail. I rotate the blade manually and pinch with 220grit sand paper and off I go. I can mill rough barn timber with it. My last set of scales were ash and I also cut camel bone for wedges (smells like a dentist office on steroids after a root canal when cutting bone).

    So invest in a band saw you will be glade you did!!!!!
    Last edited by Fort; 10-26-2013 at 01:04 AM.
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    "The blade must always be respected"

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