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10-11-2013, 02:39 PM #1
How to efficiently cut slabs for scales?
This is one I've been trying to work out for a while without buying yet another piece of machinery. I'll buy more equipment if it'll solve this, but before I do I thought I'd run it by the forum since most of you have probably already solved the issue.
I have a few boxes of exotic hardwood pieces that are all in various shapes - from 3/4" thick up to 8" and larger - as well as some thick pieces of other materials. I'll sometimes just use my compound saw to cut a few slabs for scales but the kerf of those blades are almost as thick as what the final scale will be - and that just seems like a terrible waste of wood. Tried using the scroll saw but that gets uneven slabs since I can't figure out how to make a good ripping guide for it. That results in almost as much waste as a result of sanding to get the slabs flat. Hand sawing using a very thin blade works, but again, uneven slabs.
So, does anyone have an approach that results in 1/8 to 3/16 thick wood slabs that doesn't involve a kerf that's just as thick? Couldn't find a thread on this at first look but there may be one in here that I can't see. Seems like a little table saw that uses a really thin blade would work but I can't find one online and Woodcraft doesn't seem to have what I need.
On a side note, I've had RAD and HAD for years, but this may simply be a symptom of some "restoration equipment acquisition syndrome" as well as signs of "scales material acquisition syndrome" as well.
Mike
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10-11-2013, 03:07 PM #2
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- Mar 2011
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- Corcoran, Minnesota
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Thanked: 170I use a band saw with a rip blade. Ripping thin stock with a compound miter saw is an accident waiting to happen - can't recommend that to anyone. Not a good idea on a table saw either. If you are serious about this, get a band saw. Used ones are available at reasonable prices. Good luck. I share your TAD.
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AirColorado (10-12-2013)
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10-11-2013, 03:09 PM #3
You can buy thin kerf blades that will greatly reduce your waste.
One time, in band camp, I shaved with a Gold Dollar razor.
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AirColorado (10-12-2013)
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10-11-2013, 03:19 PM #4
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Thanked: 2027Last edited by pixelfixed; 10-11-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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AirColorado (10-12-2013)
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10-11-2013, 03:41 PM #5
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- Mar 2011
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- Corcoran, Minnesota
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Thanked: 170My fence is a piece of 1x2 and 2 C clamps.
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AirColorado (10-12-2013)
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10-11-2013, 03:42 PM #6
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Geezer For This Useful Post:
AirColorado (10-12-2013), skipnord (10-11-2013), spazola (10-26-2013)
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10-11-2013, 03:48 PM #7
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Thanked: 2027
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10-11-2013, 03:59 PM #8
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- Mar 2011
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- Corcoran, Minnesota
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Thanked: 170I like Geezer's method. Mine is actually a piece of 1x2 with a rounded end. That way, there is a single point of contact, which adjusts for the fact that the blade doesn't always cut perfectly parallel to the blade itself.
Geezer - where do you get an on/off magnet like that? My TAD is kicking in.
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The Following User Says Thank You to skipnord For This Useful Post:
AirColorado (10-12-2013)
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10-11-2013, 04:02 PM #9
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Thanked: 2027Harbor Frieght,dial indicator base.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to pixelfixed For This Useful Post:
AirColorado (10-12-2013), skipnord (10-11-2013)
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10-11-2013, 04:12 PM #10
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- May 2013
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- Los Angeles South Bay
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Thanked: 284Yes bandsaw. I got a jet (horizontal) from Amazon that shipped free, etc. It has a vertical mode and I clamp a piece of stock to get the cutting depth you want as others have said.
I know it's another expense, but once you have that bandsaw you won't know how you did without it, especially if you are cutting metal stock.I love living in the past...
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The Following User Says Thank You to RoyalCake For This Useful Post:
AirColorado (10-12-2013)