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Thread: Ator Restoration

  1. #11
    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
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    I notice your a new member let everyone say hello in the Member Introduction thread.
    Welcome to the forum
    Tarkus (Darl)
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    That's one of the upshots the scales are the original (Embosed) on one side and outside of a bit of grime are almost perfect and as I said earlier the pins are still nice and tight. I also like the weight and thickness of the shank and spine. The back ridges on the shank are also in good condition.

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    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reverenddd View Post
    That's one of the upshots the scales are the original (Embosed) on one side and outside of a bit of grime are almost perfect and as I said earlier the pins are still nice and tight. I also like the weight and thickness of the shank and spine. The back ridges on the shank are also in good condition.
    If your bakelite scales are turning brownish some Mass polishing compound and a cloth will turn them back to black nicely.
    Last edited by Tarkus; 10-16-2013 at 01:11 AM.
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    Re: introduction, Will do when I figure out how. Thanks for all the help. I had heard the wet shave fraternity were a great bunch. I also have an old copy of Lynns video on razor restoration, I'll have to see if I can find it and get it converted to digital. I checked out a few youtube videos in the last couple of hours. When the time comes, this is really going to be a labour of love.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tarkus View Post
    If your bakelite scales are turning brownish some Mass polishing compound and a cloth will turn them back to black nicely.
    A fine grade of toothpaste, or Mother's or Meguires, will do an adequate job if you don't have MAAS ( My favorite) Do not use Barkeeps friend or similar products as they will discolor your blade and may react with the scales. I tried it and lost!
    ~Richard
    PS I like MAAS and toothpaste because they wash off easily!
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  6. #16
    Senior Member miha's Avatar
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    I recently got an Ator too, it has a cracked/re-glued scales at pivot pin (which has been replaced for an ugly screw).. I have been thinking if I'd try to make a new ator (embossed) scales... anyone tried this , id I'd do it by hand it's msot probably not going to turn out nice,.. so maybe a scan and laser engraving (of the surroundings of the "ATOR" sign)?
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  7. #17
    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miha View Post
    I recently got an Ator too, it has a cracked/re-glued scales at pivot pin (which has been replaced for an ugly screw).. I have been thinking if I'd try to make a new ator (embossed) scales... anyone tried this , id I'd do it by hand it's msot probably not going to turn out nice,.. so maybe a scan and laser engraving (of the surroundings of the "ATOR" sign)?
    You might be better off just looking for a donor on the bay. Thats what those scales were in the picture, & I managed to shatter them regardless.
    Lucky for me a good friend had a spare set and was kind enough to pin it as well.
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  8. #18
    Senior Member miha's Avatar
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    thanks Tarkus, I'll wait to see how it looks like when I get it,.. if I try to decide now I will probably rescale, but defenitly change the screw... I was thinking of aknother way, maybe I could do the mold and make new scales,.. shouldn't be too hard I guess, not sure which plastic to use ... although a horn with Ator sign would be really cool, but horn would probably have to be heat-molded to get the sign..?

    edit: huh another idea,.. a bit more technically advanced,.. what about 3d scanning and 3d printing... not sure how do those materials flex etc.... we'll see
    Last edited by miha; 10-16-2013 at 01:11 PM.
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  9. #19
    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
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    As far as matching it nothing will come close to the bakelite look. It looks great but oh so scary to deal with. When I was de-pinning my Ator my friend said jokingly so will you be breaking them or will you send them to me to break. I thought he was kidding until the second when my drill shattered the scales. What makes those particular scales so fragile is that the width of those riflestocks are so thin. Talk about leading with your jaw.
    Good luck and remember soft hands.
    Har!!!
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    Hi again, the more I read about this subject, the more questions form! I'm now debating whether or not to take the slow route and hone the cracked blade back by 1/8th or should I save time and "breadknife" it flat with a "cheaper" low grit stone, then hone a new bevel?

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