Results 11 to 20 of 24
Thread: Ator Restoration
-
10-15-2013, 09:45 PM #11
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- I'm Gonna Spend Another Fall In Philadelphia
- Posts
- 1,992
Thanked: 498I notice your a new member let everyone say hello in the Member Introduction thread.
Welcome to the forum
Tarkus (Darl)
-
10-15-2013, 09:47 PM #12
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Posts
- 10
Thanked: 0That's one of the upshots the scales are the original (Embosed) on one side and outside of a bit of grime are almost perfect and as I said earlier the pins are still nice and tight. I also like the weight and thickness of the shank and spine. The back ridges on the shank are also in good condition.
-
10-15-2013, 09:51 PM #13
-
10-15-2013, 09:52 PM #14
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Posts
- 10
Thanked: 0Re: introduction, Will do when I figure out how. Thanks for all the help. I had heard the wet shave fraternity were a great bunch. I also have an old copy of Lynns video on razor restoration, I'll have to see if I can find it and get it converted to digital. I checked out a few youtube videos in the last couple of hours. When the time comes, this is really going to be a labour of love.
-
10-16-2013, 01:59 AM #15
A fine grade of toothpaste, or Mother's or Meguires, will do an adequate job if you don't have MAAS ( My favorite) Do not use Barkeeps friend or similar products as they will discolor your blade and may react with the scales. I tried it and lost!
~Richard
PS I like MAAS and toothpaste because they wash off easily!Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde
-
10-16-2013, 08:28 AM #16
I recently got an Ator too, it has a cracked/re-glued scales at pivot pin (which has been replaced for an ugly screw).. I have been thinking if I'd try to make a new ator (embossed) scales... anyone tried this , id I'd do it by hand it's msot probably not going to turn out nice,.. so maybe a scan and laser engraving (of the surroundings of the "ATOR" sign)?
-
10-16-2013, 09:08 AM #17
-
10-16-2013, 01:08 PM #18
thanks Tarkus, I'll wait to see how it looks like when I get it,.. if I try to decide now I will probably rescale, but defenitly change the screw... I was thinking of aknother way, maybe I could do the mold and make new scales,.. shouldn't be too hard I guess, not sure which plastic to use ... although a horn with Ator sign would be really cool, but horn would probably have to be heat-molded to get the sign..?
edit: huh another idea,.. a bit more technically advanced,.. what about 3d scanning and 3d printing... not sure how do those materials flex etc.... we'll seeLast edited by miha; 10-16-2013 at 01:11 PM.
-
10-16-2013, 01:51 PM #19
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- I'm Gonna Spend Another Fall In Philadelphia
- Posts
- 1,992
Thanked: 498As far as matching it nothing will come close to the bakelite look. It looks great but oh so scary to deal with. When I was de-pinning my Ator my friend said jokingly so will you be breaking them or will you send them to me to break. I thought he was kidding until the second when my drill shattered the scales. What makes those particular scales so fragile is that the width of those riflestocks are so thin. Talk about leading with your jaw.
Good luck and remember soft hands.
Har!!!
-
10-16-2013, 03:15 PM #20
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Posts
- 10
Thanked: 0Hi again, the more I read about this subject, the more questions form! I'm now debating whether or not to take the slow route and hone the cracked blade back by 1/8th or should I save time and "breadknife" it flat with a "cheaper" low grit stone, then hone a new bevel?