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Thread: I purchased a project razor and want to reshape the toe but need guidance.

  1. #11
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Wait until it is in hand, you will know oh so much more

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    You are going to have to remove a lot of material to get to a Spanish point. I would make it smile, with just a bit of work on the heel, on a DMT. Just transfer the point curve to the heel tracing it on a piece of cardboard.

    You can remove a lot of material fairly quickly with an aggressive DMT plate or smaller diamond paddle files as the edge is thin. I like the EZ LAP diamond flies for this they are great for shaping, like correcting heels and removing chips in a padded vice.

    Another razor with more meat at the tip would be a better candidate for a Spanish.

    When removing a lot of metal, a Dremel does work well, but heat can be a problem. A cup of water and a vice are your friends, two hands on the Dremel.

    I breadknife the edge when reshaping an edge, just as a little extra insurance, and it is just a little, be careful.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Fort's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    You are going to have to remove a lot of material to get to a Spanish point. I would make it smile, with just a bit of work on the heel, on a DMT. Just transfer the point curve to the heel tracing it on a piece of cardboard.

    You can remove a lot of material fairly quickly with an aggressive DMT plate or smaller diamond paddle files as the edge is thin. I like the EZ LAP diamond flies for this they are great for shaping, like correcting heels and removing chips in a padded vice.

    Another razor with more meat at the tip would be a better candidate for a Spanish.

    When removing a lot of metal, a Dremel does work well, but heat can be a problem. A cup of water and a vice are your friends, two hands on the Dremel.

    I breadknife the edge when reshaping an edge, just as a little extra insurance, and it is just a little, be careful.
    I have an extra course and an extra extra course DMT plate.

    As you can see on my photoshoped images I brought the toe back very much to get into some meat. I bought his blade due to the price and the shoulderless design. I will put a smile on it, but could you explain how you would do it in a little better detail?
    Last edited by Fort; 10-16-2013 at 03:46 PM.
    "The blade must always be respected"

  4. #14
    Senior Member Fort's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Wait until it is in hand, you will know oh so much more
    Oh absolutely...I just wanted figure out what I will need to get started so I can get my supplies this week and hopefully start working this weekend. I have test fit pins and final pins, 3 sets of wood scale blanks (ash cut to 1/8" thick book matched), and Tung oil already ordered and on its way.

    I thought straight razor shaving was supposed to save me money!

    I am supposed to start building a pergola for the wife's hot tube this weekend. So SWMBO has priority during the daylight hours but the night is mine!
    Last edited by Fort; 10-16-2013 at 03:45 PM.
    "The blade must always be respected"

  5. #15
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Straight Razor shaving saves money about the same as reloading does with shooting

  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Trace the blade profile on a piece of cardboard, cut out the shape and reverse the cardboard so the toe on the cardboard is on the heel of your razor, trace on to the blade with a Sharpie. That is what you would have to remove to make the smile even.

    Holding the razor in a vice padded with leather or dense foam, edge straight up, now you can shape the edge by hand or with a Dremel. If you use a Dremel, dunk in water the minute it begins to get hot. The thin edge will heat quickly.

    After my initial post on your project, I read an article in this month’s November/December Fine Wood Working titled “Develop Your Own Design” by Michael Fortune, on his design process. Fortune is a designer, furniture maker.

    It is an interesting article and one that while is a different medium, the design process is or could be easily adapted. Too often we see the results of bad, poor or no design or rushed construction. I see it frequently in Automotive customization and Home remodeling, where something just doesn’t look quite right.

    Fortune uses a process of creating multiple Drawings, Foam Core or wood scale models, Full size Foam or Particle Board mock ups tweaking the design along the way.

    One of his best recommendations is “Then, after letting a few days pass, I review the pictures on my laptop. Two things typically happen with a bit of time passing. An Idea that initially appeared strong will drop out of favor, and an idea that seemed so-so will propel me in an interesting direction.”

    Nothing is lost in taking as much time as needed in the design process, making drawings, models and full size mock-up… before you start cutting.

    Make full scale cardboard mock–ups of the existing blade and any modifications you plan on making, as suggested mark the changes on the blade to ensure what you plan, can be done.

    Also be aware that removing that much steel from the toe will change the balance of the razor in your hand.

  7. #17
    Senior Member AirColorado's Avatar
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    I kinda wonder what the toe would look like if it were the same shape as the heel - that's a wicked looking heel!

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