Thread: What is the benefit of a triple pin?

I'm making wood scales for a Wade and Butcher because the original black horn scales were warped and I tries to straighten them without success. But the bigger problem is the crack at the pivot pin. So hence the new scales.

I was thinking of adding a triple pin for looks. But I dont want to affect the flex of the scales if that's a bad thing.

Advice?

Originally Posted by Fort

I'm making wood scales for a Wade and Butcher because the original black horn scales were warped and I tries to straighten them without success. But the bigger problem is the crack at the pivot pin. So hence the new scales.

I was thinking of adding a triple pin for looks. But I dont want to affect the flex of the scales if that's a bad thing.


Advice?

The middle pin keeps the blade from going all the way through. That shouldn't be an issue however.

I don't like the look of triple pins personally.

Some folks like a triple pin others don't. They were a signifier of quality in German razors. With three pins you had a 3 dollar razor when that was three days wages. I personally have never found a bad shaving blade with a three pin. I am not sure it would be a plus on a Sheffield blade.
Sheffield shavers is a thread to get an idea of the lines and shapes of Sheffield blades and how they were pinned:
razor-clubs-sheffield-shavers
You can do what you like to do for your razor. Those are just some possibilities.
~Richard
PS, Have fun!

Originally Posted by gcbryan

The middle pin keeps the blade from going all the way through. That shouldn't be an issue however.

I don't like the look of triple pins personally.

Well then why do we need the wedge between the scales, and how come razors with no third pin do not fall trough?

How many orig W&B has anyone seen with triple pins? would bet none

Originally Posted by gcbryan

The middle pin keeps the blade from going all the way through. That shouldn't be an issue however.

I don't like the look of triple pins personally.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Well then why do we need the wedge between the scales, and how come razors with no third pin do not fall trough?

Stefan is right, if you take some time and a light to look at the Vintage razors you will find that unless there is damage to the scales the razor does not touch the 3rd pin...

There was some theory about it allowing the gold tangs to not touch and it allowing for larger tangs to function but honestly I have never found any of these theories to hold water for all the razors I have seen with a 3rd pin

Perhaps it just looked cool

to the op... Listen to Geezer and Pixel, make sure you check the scale flex with a Sheffield razor with 2 pins, before adding a 3rd, their tangs are in general a bit more angled and it might cause some issues for you...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

..snip...
to the op... Listen to Geezer and Pixel, make sure you check the scale flex with a Sheffield razor with 2 pins, before adding a 3rd, their tangs are in general a bit more angled and it might cause some issues for you...

That is true of a few I have screwed up. The shank taper angle is enough that it is best to do the final pinning taps with the razor open. Check the opening and closing action often while pinning. Especially with dry celluloid, bone. or ivory scales. They don''t flex too good.
There are a few darn good videos available. I have busted the pivot end off more than one razor scale when i were learning, and now when I don't pay attention.
~Richard