Thread: Vaseline/Baby Oil/WD40

Originally Posted by Laurens

I prefer to strop 10x on linen after shaving. It removes the last microscopic drops from the edge.

Here's a neat little trick, if you're still concerned: wipe your thumb and index finger over your nostrils and then on the blade. The fat of your nose skin should keep the blade in good condition.

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Facial oil & salts do not compute with me either on a carbon steel blade Hirlau...nor would I recommend it

This is a much discussed topic with many divergent opinions. Unprotected carbon steel will rust if left exposed to water for any length of time, or if left unprotected to the air and humidity for a significantly long time. The lower the humidity and shorter the storage time, the greater the chance that an unprotected carbon razor will survive unscathed until its next use or inspection.

In my opinion, staining and rust are most commonly associated with:
- Unknowingly getting water between the scales during shaving or honing, especially in the pivot shank area, and then putting the razor away not actually dry. Damage can happen over night. This is an especially heart breaking tragedy for noobys who have acquired their first pristine razor and had this happen to them. It also is especially bad when it happens on or near delicate etching and gold wash.
- Placing an infrequently used razor in storage for many weeks or months only to discover bad staining and rust on its next use or inspection.

For short term storage between frequent uses, I wipe my truly dry carbon razors with Camellia oil marketed for the protection of steel blades. Mineral oil also works.

One should not expect any rust preventative treatment to work on a wet blade, The blade must be dry before wiping on oil.

I heat my blade after shaving under running hot water with the point slanting down being very careful to never get water under the scales. I then let the warmed wiped blade air dry on the counter while I clean up after shaving. When my cleanup is done, I strop 30 linen and 60 latigo leather. The blade is then wiped with Camellia oil and stored in a dry location until next use.

If I will not be using that razor for an extended period, I wipe it with a well respected gun oil (Ballistol, WD-40, Rem-Oil, etc.) Intended to protect firearms from rust during extended storage and wet field use.

Camellia oil tends to bead up on steel and may polymerize into a hard to remove coating after extended storage.

It is important to inspect carbon steel razors periodically to catch any corrosion issues before they get into an advanced state.

Caution should be exercised with celluloid vintage scales which can decompose emitting corrosive acid gas. Cell rot will not only wipe out its blade by rusting, but also any oiled or unprotected carbon steel blades stored in close proximity.

Clean and dry blades can also be wiped with Renaissance wax and silicone gun cloths.

It is important never to store razors in damp environments such as sub-grade basements and unheated garages.

Storing them in a clean dry sealed container with a dessicant pack may add additional protection.

HTH

I'm with Hiralau - I don't get it.... That gave me visions of a blade slicing off fat tissue inside someone's nose.

I looked up the description for the Tuf-Glide I use, for your info, it's oil free and: TUF-GLIDE penetrates hard to reach areas and displaces water. It provides cleaning, rust protection and lubrication. Pure mineral spirits carries the active ingredients and provides cleaning action. It quickly evaporates, and Sentrys proprietary ingredients bond to the surface. The bonding ensures long-lasting effectiveness, and reliable dirt free performance.

TUF-GLIDEs waterproof protection will not wash off and will not thicken in the cold (even down to -40°F/-40°C). It is dry to the touch so will not attract dirt like oil-based products, nor does it leave a slippery film like silicone. It is safe to use on wood and most plastics.

Again though, I thoroughly dry the blade, ensuring no moisture is left between the scales, especially the pivot area as I mentioned before, and let air dry on my razor stand before applying any Tuf-Glide.

As I mentioned, that came with my initial starter kit and was works for me....

Technically, all 3 choices would work.

Vaseline... do you mean petroleum jelly? If so, then you can use it, but it would make things a bit sticky.

WD-40... I remember reading that Glen (gssixgun) used that on his razors at some point. I use it on all of my tools, but not my razors. It is a penetrating oil, so it would work. However, I'm not sure about its health effects on your skin.

Baby oil... as mentioned, this is basically mineral oil with fragrance. It'll work. I've used this on my razors in the past. I stopped using it because I didn't want my razors smelling like baby oil. I switched to using food-grade mineral oil (USP), which has no scent; this is the type found in drug stores, in the laxative section.

I only use oil on my razors if I store them for a long time (e.g., over a week), or right after I hone them. I just dry and store my razors in a dry place after every shave.

Originally Posted by AirColorado

I'm with Hiralau - I don't get it.... That gave me visions of a blade slicing off fat tissue inside someone's nose.

That is plain silly Wiping fingers on nostrils to make them fat, then wipe fat on razor. Shooter has a point though, with the facial salt. I tried it a few times with good results, but I got lazy and stopped oiling/fattening my razors and went with just careful drying. Some got a few spots, most don't. I don't mind the spots.

WD-40= Water Displacement 40th test material

Originally Posted by SS502MC

WD-40= Water Displacement 40th test material

Yes, WD-40 is also approved for use with foods ie., use on knives for food prep etc..

WD-40 is a product that does multiple things things, not all of them especially well ( and I find it smells).

The Sentry solutions products are more specifically geared towards products like razors, firearms etc...and is not an oil based product.

My two cents, YMMV...

edited to add: many of the intro kits to str8 shaving I've seen come with the small pen applicator of Tuf-Glide and I've read here a few months ago another members opinion that carbon based products, like oil, can be termed, "like dissolves like", therefore to stay away from oil based products. Tuf-Glide and other products are mineral spirit based, but again, it's another opinion....

While WD-40 is not that toxic (rated 1 - slight health hazard) it's definitely not safe to be ingested nor food safe, so I'd be leery of using in on kitchen knives, etc.
I'm no chemist - this is just from their MSDS.