Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21
Like Tree3Likes

Thread: First restoration: 17/16" Wade and Butcher

  1. #11
    Senior Member souschefdude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Berks County PA
    Posts
    1,214
    Thanked: 180
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jordanp View Post
    Sounds good. This time I will start with 400 grit and do two passes each way, then proceed as I did before. Any suggestions you would make to my previous process? I outlined it more in the links to the photo albums. Will pay more attention to the edge area this time.
    Alter the direction of your grit passes just slightly. This makes it easier to see when you are ready to proceed to the next grit. So at 400 maybe go straight up and down. At 600 go at a slight angle from vertical. When all the 400 lines are gone you can go to 800, running vertical again til all the angled 600 lines are gone, etc.

  2. #12
    Senior Member souschefdude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Berks County PA
    Posts
    1,214
    Thanked: 180
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jordanp View Post
    Sounds good. This time I will start with 400 grit and do two passes each way, then proceed as I did before. Any suggestions you would make to my previous process? I outlined it more in the links to the photo albums. Will pay more attention to the edge area this time.
    Your process looks pretty good, with the exception of MAAS cleaning for 10 HOURS? Was that a typo?
    I usually do 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 all on the drum sander, dry. (I'll have to see about adding a wet pass or two at the higher grits). Then a pass of white rouge on the buffer, then Mother's on the buffer.
    Are the scales really that bad? Can't tell from the pics. They seem restorable in the few pics they are shown, or are you just drooling for Amboyna?

  3. #13
    Senior Member Dimitry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Torhout, Belgium
    Posts
    473
    Thanked: 41

    Default

    If I can add one suggestion...
    That blade looks great and those black horn scales really don't look bad. Just a wipe with neatsfootoil, let them dry and clean the scales with a cloth.
    The original scales look beautiful on those wade & butcher blades so I wouldn't change the scales.
    If I can, I keep a razor all original.
    HARRYWALLY likes this.

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth Chevhead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Upstate, New York
    Posts
    2,751
    Thanked: 708
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    Nice Job! It is looking Good

  5. #15
    Senior Member ischiapp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ischia, Naples, Italy
    Posts
    1,960
    Thanked: 132

    Default

    very nice, it shines
    Where there is a great desire there can be no great difficulty - Niccolò Machiavelli & Me
    Greeting from Ischia. Pierpaolo @ ischiapp.blogspot.com

  6. #16
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    9
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    souschefdude: no exaggeration! I did at least 5 hours of polishing with MAAS before I started sanding - could have been less than 10, but definitely more than 5. Taking this restoration nice and slow. The damage to the scales is hard to show in the pictures, but the scales look melted which I have shown in one of the photos, plus there were a couple of small chips and cracks not pictured. I'll try to get some better ones up there soon. But yes, I do have a particular lust for the Amboyna Burl...

    Dimitry: I definitely would have reused the scales if possible (I share your affinity for the all-original aspect), but the damage seemed like it would be impossible to repair. I'll try to get better photos of the damaged scales up tonight.

    Chevhead and ischiapp: Thanks to you both! Definitely a work in progress but it's turning out nicely so far!

    I decided to take souschefdude's advice and go down to 400 grit, but I wasn't seeing the results I wanted with just two passes... so far Ive done about 7 passes (four lengthwise, three horizontally) and I almost have -all- of the pits out. I don't know offhand if I have pictures of the pits near the barber's notch up, but on the side opposite of the makers mark they are almost fully sanded out. Perhaps a couple of more passes and they will be removed. Thanks for all of the advice guys, I really appreciate it!
    souschefdude likes this.

  7. #17
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    9
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Hey guys, sorry for the slow updates - lots of stuff going on. I've been working on there razor a lot this week, and wanted to keep you updated on my progress and get your opinion on something...

    Here are the updated photos: Razor - 12/12 - Imgur

    Firstly, you can see the damage to the scales. That is a sizeable chunk missing, plus the shape of the interior edge of the scale (where it is very thin due to the chunk being removed) looks warped in such a way that makes me think heat damage. Anyhow, I actually went down to 400 grit on the blade and wasn't seeing the results I wanted, so I went down to 320 grit, doing multiple passes (heel to toe, then spine to edge, then heel to toe again, etc). I was able to get all of the pits removed along the edge of the blade, and most near the shoulder and barbers notch. The remaining pits do not bother me at all - I would have to remove more metal than I am comfortable with right now in order to get those out, unless you guys think I am overestimating how bad they are?

    Issues I had this time around: as you can see, there is a line near the shoulder of the non makers-mark side of the razor. I was using a nail file (with the rounded edge cut off) with sandpaper wrapped around it to get in to the hard to reach areas along the shoulder, and I'm guessing I made that indention with a low grit paper and didn't realize it until I was using the 3000 grit. Also, I've read countless individuals testifying that the dremel tool is terrible for straight razor work, and I can see why. I had the speed settings on the slowest it would go (dremel tool model 3000) and you can see the uneven polishing done. I've used the dremel tool successfully in the past, but with one of the external speed controllers that lowers the speed/torque of the tool even further. Not sure if I should try this on the other side or just wait for the micromesh I ordered earlier today. I'll have to resand the side that I put the sandpaper line on - thinking about starting at 1000 grit over the entire side and moving up to 3000 from there, then doing the micromesh - or I could go buy a regular drill and lock the rpms down to a lower speed with a 3" cloth wheel on it...

    What do you guys think?

  8. #18
    Senior Member rmagnus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    248
    Thanked: 48

    Default

    I hear what you're saying about the dremel tool. I think an oscillation type sander would be better. At least your finish would be uniform. IMO do not move on from the lowest grit until you're completely satisfied with the defect removal. I see it the same as setting the bevel honing resist the temptation to move on until it's right.

    Blade looks very nice. Keep your patience and enjoy the process. You'll have that edge for life.

  9. #19
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    9
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    I'm definitely satisfied with the pitting removal - I don't need it to be a perfect blade. I think too much metal/detail would be lost to get to that point.

    Just to clarify, the dremel tool was only used with medium hardness felt wheels for polishing with jewelrs rouge - all of the sanding was done by hand. Also, this time I had a 30x jewelers loupe to examine the blade each time I made a pass in sanding it down. I'd highly recommend getting one, it really helped to make sure I was getting the progress I wanted.

  10. #20
    Rock collector robellison01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    525
    Thanked: 88

    Default

    I would repair those scales if it was my razor. I don't think that's too bad really. Some epoxy with black dye and a little sanding could have them looking good as new. And for that particular razor, I don't think anything else could look better than the originals. Something about the FBU, it just looks perfect in black horn.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •