I think that is a standard size so you can make them as you want from that point.
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I think that is a standard size so you can make them as you want from that point.
A FBU showed up in my mailbox, yesterday.!!
Yes, it belongs to one of our newest members...lazyMayzyK. Or Kyle, for short.
Unpinned it, saving the original collars n wedge.
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Blade faces have had some kind mechanical sanding done to them, but I should be able to remove most, if not all, without damage to the etch. Thankfully, their not too deep, but its still gonna take some time to clean up.
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The scales are in pretty good shape.
I've given them a sanding, then cleaned with denatured alcohol. A few spots, mainly at the wedge, have delamination that need a touch of CA.
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For now...they reside in a solution of black, hair dye. Once done, and dry, I'll take care of the delamination, and get um soaking in Neatsfoot oil while I'm working on the blade.
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I figure by the time I finish the blade, they should be well hydrated, and ready for flattening with the ol' clothes iron. :nj
Mike's your man. As I said before you won't believe the transformation that thing will undergo. I hope you have good before pics because it's easy to forget just how much different it looked before.
Go Mike!
Hey, is that thing over 8/8 Mike? It looks like 9/8 or at least 17/16.
17/16 at toe, 8/8 at heel., Paul.
Scales are out of dye. Rinsed, conditioned, and drying.
Pics on those, tomorrow.
On the other hand... I managed to get the scratches out, and the rest of the blade sanded with 600grt. W/D, and baby oil.
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A bit of light character, should be all that's left, once done.
I'm assuming..:shrug:
Looking good Mike. I've been meaning to ask you this resto question. How long do you usually let scales soak in the hair dye?
Several hrs. Say 3-4 hrs or more.
Can't hurt anything,
Were working with horn, instead of hair/ same thing. Just thicker, and only one strand. Gonna take a bit to penetrate it.
Note: always dye, before any CA repairs. Dye won't penetrate CA, and you'll end up with what looks like fisheye.
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Yeah, had to learn that lesson the hard way. I have added dust to the patch but that is a bit like matching paint on a fender and it works better with epoxy. Mainly added it to epoxy to give it a grainy effect and so it didn't look translucent.
Baby oil huh Mike? Never tried that before; only water, sometimes with a drop of soap.
Oil always works better. I've had a bottle sitting on the honing bench, for Arks. I figured...why not.! It works great.! And my hands and fingers like it, too. :rofl2: