Thread: Tru-oil finish!? Anyone?

Hi;
I usually use shellac for my wood scale finish... But i use tru-oil for the stock of my guns... I was wondering if anybody had experimented with this product on scales!? Its water proof and durable... I would assume that it would work... I will be trying it soon...
Still... If anybody has any feedback it would be great!

I've used Birchwood Casey, which is pretty much the same thing. Used it on oily tropicals for extra protection - African Blackwood, Rosewood, Ebony, etc..

Works great,after about 20 coats,I cut it 30% with lighter fluid (naptha) knock it down between coats,you can get a durable glass like finish.

Sweet! I do use Birchwood brand for guns! Kinda exited to try it... Have you use as a finish coat over something else? Like stains, amber shellac, etc?

Just my opinion, but I don't use oil type finishes on top of any kind of sealer. Works on top of stains - both oil and water based. I don't use on top of CA, sanding sealer, shellac, etc.. That said, I think all of us develop a finishing method that we like, and works for us - It may be completely different from what anyone else uses. Bob Carls, an excellent woodturner, uses wiping poly cut with Japan drier and oil. I've tried it, and I like how it works with non-oily hardwoods. One question we all face is what to do about pores. We can use sanding sealer, but then we have to use shellac or poly or ???????. Or, we can use multiple coats of whatever hardening finish we choose, with lots of sanding between lots of coats - or we can leave the pores, and call it a "design feature". Completely up to the individual. I love CA finishes, but they require lots of coats, since I like to fill pores. Experiment, find what works for you, and have fun.

Originally Posted by robert2286

Sweet! I do use Birchwood brand for guns! Kinda exited to try it... Have you use as a finish coat over something else? Like stains, amber shellac, etc?

Tru-oil can be a great finish, I come from a rifle background so I felt really comfortable using it..

Cutting it back especially the first few coats as Pixel said really does help so does applying the first few coats using 800 grit sandpaper to create a wood slurry that will fill pores There are tons of tricks to be learned and tried

Yea, that is the trick to filling the pores when using Tru Oil. I used to thin it 50/50 with lacquer thinner IIRC. Time consuming to work with requiring very many coats rubbing down between each.

Bob

Thanks guys... I did see a guy applying his second coat of tru oil with 0000 steel wool and wet sanding it... Very interesting! Thanks guys... I am definitely experimenting! I will post the results for sure!

back in the day brownells used to sell a gunstock finish called linspeed,are all linseed oil cut with a dryer,you can make your own with common linseed oil but best to use clear artist grade if working with light colored woods to prevent yellowing.
After about 15 knocked down coats use rottonstone and walnut oil making a slurry with a soft cloth,makes for a very nice finish.

Im learning!!!! Thanks guys