Thread: Bone scale shape

I am working on a set of bone scales for a gold dollar that I have. I went to the pet store and picked up a couple pieces with decent flats for slabs and am trying to come up with ideas for the shape of the scales. The wedge will be bone and I am going to try to install it pin less thinking of stainless washers with nickle pins for the blade. What do you all think of this shape?

Only one way to find out. For me it seems the scale shape changes a bit during fabrication as I test fit with the blade. Let it live.

For that Blade,any shape will work,have fundawg bones will be a perfect match to the blade.

I have made scales from pet store beef dog bone myself. First you will need to boil it for a few hours. Then scrape off any excess flesh. Next bake it at about 200 for a few hours to dry it out some. Next is the fun part. Cutting out the shape I recommend you work outside as burning bone does not smell too good. Sand both sides nice and flat. Now you can fine tune the shape, polish, drill and pin. Be careful pinning. One wrong move and you crack the bone and all your work is for nothing. If luck is on your side and all goes well you will be rewarded with beautiful scales. Good luck.

These are the cleaned and bleached bones so no need to clean them.

I know cheap razor but want to make something that will look nice sitting on the counter. Really just want to make sure I am not trying to get them to small near the pivot and that the proposed shape wont be to fragile.

On the scales I have made I try to keep the pivot end the same or close to the height of the tang on the razor. After that I can taper them off or do whatever I want as long as it keeps the razor balanced, but even if the balance is off you can always change the wedge to something like lead to add weight. Reducing weight usually ends up meaning removing material from the scales(e.g. thinning the scales) if your not using a heavy wedge. Bone usually works well thin compared to wood or acyrlic.

I find that working with bone its easier and theres less tears if you can get the holes drill while there is still a lot of thickness left. Like Bouschie Remarked be very carefull with the pinning good luck

So adjust the pivot area and drill before I get any where close to final shape.

Thanks for the tips Gents.

I agree with everything above, except that I like to get the shape and thickness almost right before I drill the holes with a dremel - then I get to the hand filing and sanding and polishing. Bone has proven a favourite for me.

Thanks for the advice.

This stuff is a hard material to work with hand tools. Got one blank cut need to cut the other blank. Then it is on to flattening and getting them matched up so I can layout the pattern.