Results 21 to 24 of 24
Thread: Hand Sanding A Blade, Redux
-
02-23-2014, 09:25 PM #21
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,029
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13245Thought of the day :
When presenting a theory and making a statement expect to be challenged and expect to be able to back it up with facts and numbers... It isn't being mean or being a bully it is looking for accurate info that has been proved...
I have never known this group of people on SRP in the almost 7 years I have been here, not to ask "Really ???? can you prove it" if you want the techniques that work this is the right place because we ask that exact question...
end of thoughtLast edited by gssixgun; 02-23-2014 at 09:27 PM.
-
02-23-2014, 10:02 PM #22
OP, had you put a bevel on it before the restoration process? If so, how does the bevel look after your polish up of the blade? This would be the definitive answer if it really makes a difference.
The older I get the more I realize how little I actually know.
-
02-23-2014, 11:39 PM #23
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Posts
- 318
Thanked: 39I have a razor that really does have a ruined spine - its beyond a joke. Taped up the spine and set the bevel on a yellow Ardennes coticul, then moved to the other, harder, whetstone side and refined the edge. The spine is still comic but it shaves fine. From pure neglect to shaving with one stone and some tape. I wouldn't give up on your razor yet!
-
02-24-2014, 01:10 AM #24
Spines on most razors with much age to them (let alone nearly two centuries) are likely not perfect to start out with. The bevel is a straight line with the point the razor rests on a hone (if you are using tape that point isn't even on your razor) and the edge of the razor. If the grind line is rounded the angle has just been made microscopically more acute. The resting point is ever so slightly farther from the edge as it was.