Thread: Best procedure to 're-round' the pivot hole using brass sleeve insert?

Originally Posted by Bruno

Another, easier approach perhaps is to insert a small pice of solid brass rod, peen it, file it, and then drill a hole through it.

Would this be better than using a hardened epoxy with a hole? Or is it mainly preference?

I have a theory on those oversized holes in tangs. Lots, if not most, old Sheffies used no washers between scales and tang. As the razor is opened, the angled tang is swung around and the forces from it are applied to the scales in different places throughout the entire sweep of motion. A larger hole, regardless of shape, allows the blade to 'slip' to even out this pressure through the motion keeping the same pressure whatever the position is. I only bush a pivot when it is dictated by blade-to-wedge clearance. I figure they knew what they were doing with those big holes!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

I have a theory on those oversized holes in tangs. Lots, if not most, old Sheffies used no washers between scales and tang. As the razor is opened, the angled tang is swung around and the forces from it are applied to the scales in different places throughout the entire sweep of motion. A larger hole, regardless of shape, allows the blade to 'slip' to even out this pressure through the motion keeping the same pressure whatever the position is. I only bush a pivot when it is dictated by blade-to-wedge clearance. I figure they knew what they were doing with those big holes!

Back in they day, the razor makers were, IMO cranking out razors that may have cost $1, probebly quik and dirty work.
Punching a wierd shaped hole was maybe the norm,nobody cared.
But today we have the abilitys to make a perfect hole for a round pin,is only sound mechanics.
Doing a resto on a fine blade without sound mechanics (the proper pin and pivot hole, properly sized) is just plain wrong JMO

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Back in they day, the razor makers were, IMO cranking out razors that may have cost $1, probebly quik and dirty work.
Punching a wierd shaped hole was maybe the norm,nobody cared.
But today we have the abilitys to make a perfect hole for a round pin,is only sound mechanics.
Doing a resto on a fine blade without sound mechanics (the proper pin and pivot hole, properly sized) is just plain wrong JMO

And then another school of thought! Anyway, they cannot be seen, once pinned. I have had no issues leaving them alone.
After bushing lots and then not, I really see no difference. Seems bushing for the sake of....er....Bushing! JMO

Originally Posted by sharptonn

And then another school of thought! Anyway, they cannot be seen, once pinned. I have had no issues leaving them alone.
After bushing lots and then not, I really see no difference. Seems bushing for the sake of....er....Bushing! JMO

On my own restos,I cannot tolorate a blade that clicks back and fourth with a round pivot and a mishapen hole,is just my way.
we all do what we do.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

On my own restos,I cannot tolorate a blade that clicks back and fourth with a round pivot and a mishapen hole,is just my way.
we all do what we do.

Never heard an old Sheffield 'click' If pinned tightly. Yes. We all do what we do. In my restoration of certain razors of historical significance, things are left as they were. Things done are done like they were done originally. That is what SOME of us do, anyway. Anything CAN be done. Whether or not is IS done is up to the individual's desires. Just opined that it seems not necessary in most cases.
JMO

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Never heard an old Sheffield 'click' If pinned tightly. Yes. We all do what we do. In my restoration of certain razors of historical significance, things are left as they were. Things done are done like they were done originally. That is what SOME of us do, anyway. Anything CAN be done. Whether or not is IS done is up to the individual's desires. Just opined that it seems not necessary in most cases.
JMO

If pinned tightly, granted the blade will be fine, until the trust washers wear and the pivot becomes loose, may take 100 yrs.
Overtightning a pivot to compensate for an oversized hole is just wrong,IMO

Originally Posted by rvrboy17

Would this be better than using a hardened epoxy with a hole? Or is it mainly preference?

Epoxy will work, just remember that if you lay the tang down flat, your 90° drill press won't be going through the tang at 90° on many razors due to the sides of the tang not being parallel. I used to epoxy mine when I needed to fill a large hole, but have not done so for quite a while. No particular reason other than having some tubing lying around. I suspect another part of the reason was me having doubts about how durable the epoxy would be in the long run, but I suspect they will all long outlive me.

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Epoxy will work, just remember that if you lay the tang down flat, your 90° drill press won't be going through the tang at 90° on many razors due to the sides of the tang not being parallel. I used to epoxy mine when I needed to fill a large hole, but have not done so for quite a while. No particular reason other than having some tubing lying around. I suspect another part of the reason was me having doubts about how durable the epoxy would be in the long run, but I suspect they will all long outlive me.

Im still making the scales of my first restore. I haven't looked closely at the tang enough yet to notice the angle. So by doing the brass tube, it, in theory, retains the angle... Assuming you don't have to drill the hole out to fit the tube. Thanks!