Results 1 to 10 of 13
Thread: Chipping of blade from buffer.
-
03-26-2014, 07:19 AM #1
Chipping of blade from buffer.
I have been doing some restoration work with buffers recently. My tool of choice is the HF 8" buffer; which I know is a lil fast, but I found the link to the Grizzly buffer too late!
Question is that I have had some issues with minor chipping along the edge of some blades and even a toe chipped. A running theme seems to be that blades that are fully hollow or thin grinds are much more likely to chip? Is the issue technique, grind, tool used, or a combination of it all? I have had some success with thin grinds though, but always great outcome for half hollow and thicker. Thanks in advance for your replies.
Andrew
-
03-26-2014, 07:26 AM #2
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,034
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 132474 inch wheels
Light pressure
and above all else
DO NOT Run the wheel into the edge, if you are buffing spine to edge, you have to make SURE that the edge is pointing straight down and that the buffing wheel is not impacting into it, rather than just gliding over it.. Someplace on here I have pics of this and it makes way more sense seeing it rather than explaining it...
Keep in mind that a 8 inch buffer running at 3450 is the same SFPM as a 4 inch Buffer running at 1725 the 4 inch wheel also lets you get into the hollow better
here
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tml#post623194Last edited by gssixgun; 03-26-2014 at 07:28 AM.
-
-
03-27-2014, 09:08 PM #3
Thank you very much that makes a lot of sense with the pictures. I was applying some torque and touching the edge to the buffing wheel. I am currently running six inch wheels since that's was the smallest I could find locally, but will order the four inch wheels ASAP. Do you always run the razors perpendicular to the buffer? There were times I would slightly angle them for comfort/getting into areas better; is this okay? Thanks again.
-
03-27-2014, 09:38 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,034
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13247Reading the thread I linked will show several ways the people use the buffers...
I personally almost always follow the same direction as the original grinder did, so for most razors that is Spine to Edge, Yes I know that that isn't technically correct but Edge to Spine doesn't work too well on a buffer
I try and follow the same direction, going across grain I feel makes the razor look funny but that is just me...
-
03-27-2014, 10:02 PM #5Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:
gssixgun (03-27-2014)
-
03-27-2014, 10:27 PM #6
I continue with the grind as well, but use a dremel which I need to be *very* careful with... both with buffer wheel speed, direction, proximity to the edge. Blue magic, flitz, white paste all seem to work well.
Next to safety face shield, the most important thing for me to remember is not to lax in my attention to any of the things I mentioned above. The moment I do, giiiingt! burrrrvv! scratched tang, shaved buffing wheel.
-
03-27-2014, 10:42 PM #7
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,034
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13247
-
03-28-2014, 09:45 PM #8
Swmbo won't be happy to see another shipment of buffing wheels, but it's a necessity evil right? Wet shaving seems to about seeing how close one can get across the board whether it's a shave or your girl's last nerve.
Razor rich, but money poor. I should have diversified into Eschers!
-
03-29-2014, 01:13 AM #9
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 32154 in wheels as said, Castwells for good quality wheels and use plenty of water when the blade First begins to heat up. I use a cut off water bottle near the buffer cause you will knock it over.
I run 2 wheel of the same grit so one is drying, while the other is in use. Also mark the rotation of the wheel when first used and mark the grit of greaseless in magic marker high enough on the wheel to be read over the stabilizing washers.
Let the wheel do the work, pressure just heats the razor and prematurely wears off the compound. Rake your wheel and trim with a sharp scissor before loading the first time. AND WEAR A MASK.
Castells has very good buffing primer as does Metal polish for aluminum, silver, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper and bronze from English Custom Polishing..
And here is the link to The Now & Zen of Custom Metal Polishing from English Custom Polishing in PDF, a good read and a wheel size/ speed chart.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
aa1192 (03-29-2014)
-
03-29-2014, 01:41 AM #10
Yeah I learned the hard way about prepping my wheels with rake and scissor. The wheel was the only thing not covered in compound!
Razor rich, but money poor. I should have diversified into Eschers!