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Thread: I Want To Preserve The Patina
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04-22-2014, 05:26 PM #11
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Posts
- 273
Thanked: 43It looks like the "patina" on this razor has some rust incorporated into it.
The rust probably will not cause you any issues if you give the razor a reasonable amount of care.
I haven't used Flitz, but I would think it might have some oils and or waxes in it?
I like the idea of using the finest grade of steel wool you can find to apply it with.
I don't mind leaving some of the "battle scars" on a razor to testify to the rough times it has seen.
When you get it shaving as well as or maybe better than many of the newer razors, you can be quite proud of your "beater".
Let us know the results of your efforts.
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04-23-2014, 01:09 AM #12
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215As said, 000 and 0000 steel wool and WD40 will clean the blade and scales. This is just cleaning and rust removal.
WD40, Steel Wool and a coffee stir stick with the end clipped straight will get between the scales, the jimps and tang near the pivot. A dental pick or sharpened paper clip is good for detail work on jimps. A flat tipped Exacto blade can get pretty far under the scales at the pivot and cut off any rust or gunk accumulation (take your time). Dental floss and/or a piece of nylon masonry string (you may have to unravel it) and some polish will clean it out from the pivot.
If you can, find a Spring Steel bristle from a street sweeper about 6 inches long and 3/16 wide and a 1/16 thick... I find them in the street and in parking lots near curbs, it is an invaluable “Tool” and have collected them for years, great for Auto Restoration and Gunsmithing & cleaning. They can be sharpened and reshaped for specialized tasks.
Polish with Blue Shop paper towels and any good Metal polish once the major gunk has been removed (spray liberally with WD40). The blue towels are more abrasive and will not fall apart like the bleached ones. All this is just cleaning.
This will take 20 minutes to an hour, in the end you will have a clean razor…then you can decide what if any direction to proceed in.
Here is one of my favorite photos of an old restored razor where Patina and tons of character was left on the blade. It was rescaled with antique repurposed tortoise shell.
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04-23-2014, 02:30 AM #13
Sigh!.......................................
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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04-23-2014, 02:34 AM #14
Well, we get to keep what we like, whatever anyone else thinks of it. I wouldn't trade my old gray patina bladed FBU with the tight crack at the wedge end of the original scales for ten of those shiny mirror restored FBUs with multi color acrylic. Like everything else in this sport, YMMV.
Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JimmyHAD For This Useful Post:
sharptonn (04-23-2014)
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04-23-2014, 02:43 AM #15
Everyone has valid points. Pitting harbors rust. Original is best. Clean is preferable! . Acrylic (ahem) sucks. Shiny is shiny!
It's all about YOU. Gives you something to think about. Like what you will prefer in 10 years!"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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04-23-2014, 03:37 AM #16
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Between Owensboro and Bowling Green KY
- Posts
- 236
Thanked: 31If the scales are coming off, you could add an artificial patina with warm vinegar after the rust/pits have been removed. Owners discretion. Enjoy the shave.
"The needs of the many out way the needs of the few or the one." Only if the 'few' or the 'one' are/is offering themselves (thru freewill) for the sacrifice. And not thru force from the 'many'.