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Thread: Drilling out pins

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    With Ivory scales,I do the entire process by hand with a pin vise,Takes alot longer but you have great control.
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    Baxxer (05-13-2014), randydance062449 (05-14-2014)

  3. #12
    Senior Member Johnus's Avatar
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    The pin vice idea. How do you initiate the start of the hole. A smaller than pin sized bit or one the same size?? I've tried but the bit keeps sliding off and scratching the scales.(;-(

  4. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnus View Post
    The pin vice idea. How do you initiate the start of the hole. A smaller than pin sized bit or one the same size?? I've tried but the bit keeps sliding off and scratching the scales.(;-(
    The smallest bit you have,I go much smaller the 1/16,trust your eye, the eye always centers.
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  5. #14
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Indeed, a good tutorial . I use pretty much the same method. I have found it is good to either file or dremel-drum the pin flat, if possible, so that the bit bites and does not slip off. Also, I use split-point cobalt bits. The tiny 'extra' drill at the tip makes it easy to just start drilling without any center divot needed. I bring the razor up to the bit and wobble the razor to get the bit to the middle. It is nice as one can go right thru the middle of the pin and wobble the razor to eat the flare out.
    Good to share about saving the collars as we can. Sometimes they cannot all be saved, but having spares will help to keep it original looking!
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

  6. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Name:  tape 001.jpg
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Size:  33.6 KBOne other that I find helpfull, (Esp with Ivory) Duct tape or two layers of masking tape with a hole punched into it.
    Will help with any slipping issues getting the pin out,also gives a sort of cushion when repinning and helps protect the scales while sanding.
    Many ways to do this stuff,great tutorial above.
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  7. #16
    Senior Member MattCB's Avatar
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    Thank you all for the tip about filing it down and then strting a hole with a ball bit grinder or a pin vise.
    Question: I have seen people advise lowering the drill tip down to the razor and also bringing the razor up to the bit. What are the pros and cons of these approaches? I could see having a greater degree of control if you brought the razor to the drill bit, BUT I think it might be easier for a straight and clean hole if you bring the drill bit to the razor. Opinions?
    The older I get the more I realize how little I actually know.

  8. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth Steel's Avatar
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    Great information. Thanks for taking the time to type it all up. I have also heard of people using flush cutters to remove the pin but haven't tried it yet. I usually do the same as above. File flat, pilot divot, and drill until washer comes off or scales are able to come apart.
    sharptonn likes this.
    What a curse be a dull razor; what a prideful comfort a sharp one

  9. #18
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattCB View Post
    Thank you all for the tip about filing it down and then strting a hole with a ball bit grinder or a pin vise.
    Question: I have seen people advise lowering the drill tip down to the razor and also bringing the razor up to the bit. What are the pros and cons of these approaches? I could see having a greater degree of control if you brought the razor to the drill bit, BUT I think it might be easier for a straight and clean hole if you bring the drill bit to the razor. Opinions?
    Personally, I prefer to bring the razor to the spinning bit (low RPM). It would be difficult, to me, to have the pin straight against something stationary. It tends to walk off the pin and onto the scales. Also, corrections toward the center of the pin are easily made by tilting the razor around until center is being properly drilled. I throw a rag over the drill vise and use it to steady my hands while drilling, little pressure and letting the bit do the work. This way, you can 'feel' your way! As MyCarver pointed out, all we are doing is taking the top off to save collars, drilling halfway thru the scale, and getting the tapered part out so it can be disassembled. I usually keep wobbling on the taper and giving a light twist to the blade until it comes apart easily. Don't use a punch! Then, remove the blade, reach in and cut the drilled part off with side cutters, Twist and push the rest of the pin with needle noses out from the inside, gently! I would normally have my left thumb and index finger holding the tang, here, but they are taking the picture!


    Name:  DSCN0871.jpg
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    Last edited by sharptonn; 05-13-2014 at 07:31 PM.
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  10. #19
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steel View Post
    Great information. Thanks for taking the time to type it all up. I have also heard of people using flush cutters to remove the pin but haven't tried it yet. I usually do the same as above. File flat, pilot divot, and drill until washer comes off or scales are able to come apart.
    Yes, the flush cutter route is a scale-damager to me. Also, even if you will not be using the scales, the collars are worth saving!
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

  11. #20
    Junior Member ynot151's Avatar
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    do you have a list common pivot and pin washers list? where do i buy? mccmaster and carr or micro fast?
    how do you make you new pins look so even and polished?

    thanks .

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