Results 41 to 44 of 44
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05-18-2014, 06:51 PM #41
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Morgan Hill, CA
- Posts
- 21
Thanked: 3I just performed my first hone, using Lynn's Video:
...as my guide, and it went pretty well. I made a mistake or two along the way as far as keeping the entire edge of my razor on the stone as I performed my strokes -- turns out it's pretty easy to lose that "balance" and lift one side or the other up -- but I became aware of that, at least, and corrected myself. Just did a shave afterwards, and I am pretty pleased. Nice and smooth. So a good first step!
I improvised a little, and was able to take out the nick I had put into the toe of the blade last week. Don't know if it's right or wrong, but I did this on the 1k by lifting the heel-end of the razor a little, and applying some pressure to the jagged toe, doing circles, then flipping over and doing the same on the other side of the blade. I had to repeat this process two or three times to get the nick out. Then I proceeded with the steps outlined in the video above. Seemed to work pretty well.
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05-18-2014, 07:06 PM #42
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 2,944
Thanked: 433This is my almost basic setup as well
My everyday set is: Smith 750 diamond hone for chips and bevels, King 1k waterstone for bevel setting, Norton 4k/8k for edge refining, C12k or Escher for finishing, CrOx Paddle for touch-ups and final finish. I have a lot more hones/stones but these are what I use 90% of the time.
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05-19-2014, 04:56 PM #43
As per the chip removal, there is a technique Glen and others call "pushing the edge" which will allow you to up the cutting power while keeping the spine in contact with the hone. I've used it and it works well, particularly for trouble edges. There's a video out there there somewhere by Glen gssixgun.
Question of the day: Did you hone tape on or tape off?
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05-19-2014, 05:45 PM #44
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Morgan Hill, CA
- Posts
- 21
Thanked: 3