Thread: another (similar) way to drill pins and save original washers

Here is another method that I use to drill out pins and save the original washers on a razor.
first of all, pick a razor. That's easy. For this example I chose a Wade & Butcher that has decent scales that can be used in a later thread.
As has been pointed out before you don't want to try drilling out a pin that is domed. The Drill bit will skate across the pin more readily than biting in and it's likely that if it does bite in it will be off center and may ruin the washers you intend to save. To facilitate the drill starting where you want it to it is first helpful to file the head flat as seen in the picture.

After filing the flat you want to ensure the drill bit will center properly. There are different ways of doing this but all involve creating a shallow recess or divot in the center of the pin. For this method I chose to start a pilot with an inexpensive center drill bit. The oversized shank of these bits greatly aids the stability while starting a pilot hole. I Chose to use a center drill bit a little smaller than the 1/16" bit I will later use to finish drilling the pin.

Now that the center of the pin is drilled I switch to the 1/16" drill bit I will use to finish drilling the pins. In the photo you can see how once the pin is drilled down far enough the washers will spiral up the drill bit. It is important to turn off the motor before attempting to remove the washers.
These little guys are, well.... little. You want to make sure you have a clean spot set aside so you can save them without losing them in clutter. In the photo you can see that I simply used a piece of tape to hold all washers I removed. Also note that I left the remaining washers on the pins and simply removed the remaining portion of pin once enough of the center was drilled out. You DO NOT have or want to drill through the entire pin. You increase the likelihood of damaging the scales or washers if you try to drill through the whole pin.
At this stage I have the razor all apart and ready for further restorative action on the scales and blade. Those will be dealt with in later Threads. If you do not plan to finish the restore in one go then it is wise to have a space set aside before hand for safe storage of the loose blade and small parts. I like to keep all parts from a razor stored together.

Thanks for posting this method! never got round to it.
I have a couple older Dremel drill presses with the base that rises and the tool stays stationary and the above methods work very well for me also.
Center drills at HF or online in a better quality.
~Richard

Nice work! These things which have been coming up are so useful to do accurate restos. Thanks to all of you which contribute!
Relieves me to see someone else coming up to the bit. Works for some! Lord knows we must save collars, scales, and all!

In that vein, here are some other things which work well for me!
Cheap tools for razor restorations
~Richard

I have been using a snapping center punch. I will have to try the center drill someday now that you have reminded me to get one. The thing with my punch method is I can hit it again and move the divot if I don't get it perfect the first time. I always file like you do. And I stop before I hit the washer if they are real relics. Then I use a pin vice to remove the rest of the pin top. Your method may save me some time.

Originally Posted by 10Pups

I have been using a snapping center punch. I will have to try the center drill someday now that you have reminded me to get one. The thing with my punch method is I can hit it again and move the divot if I don't get it perfect the first time. I always file like you do. And I stop before I hit the washer if they are real relics. Then I use a pin vice to remove the rest of the pin top. Your method may save me some time.

Only problem I have had with the snapping center punches is they can break the old celluloid or bone and ivory scales at the pin...happened to me a couple times. Fine for horn and other slightly flexible materials.
~Richard

Originally Posted by 10Pups

I have been using a snapping center punch. I will have to try the center drill someday now that you have reminded me to get one. The thing with my punch method is I can hit it again and move the divot if I don't get it perfect the first time. I always file like you do. And I stop before I hit the washer if they are real relics. Then I use a pin vice to remove the rest of the pin top. Your method may save me some time.

I used a snap center punch for a while. They work good, but they must be unscrewed and 'tuned' to give a lighter 'tap' by grinding off of the main spring. They still want to go where you don't want them to! After I discovered the split-tip cobalt jobber-length bits, I throw rocks at all of my previous endeavors. I simply aim and drill them out! JMO

[QUOTE=10Pups;1338625] I always file like you do. And I stop before I hit the washer if they are real relics. QUOTE]

you saw where I filed a wee bit too much did you? hehe, if you look at the pic of the washers on the piece of tape you can see its just a grazing, that first pic looked BAD! but a good reminder, if these were daisy collars or something special id be gritting my teath at myself!