Thread: Needing a new buffer

I also have a Baldor, but I still like the feeling of making something from someone's trash. I never throw away any electrical parts, just ask my wife! Washer and dryer motors have a shelf to themselves.

Like Glen said scrounging parts off a washer can be the best way to go. Some of the washer/dryer motors can be two-speed, so please do not use them unless you are familiar with them. Look for ones that still the I.D. tags on them and you can read. I am sure if you ask for help someone will be able to.

I would love to have a Baldor but price is a huge consideration. I try to buy US products when I can BUT I have to watch the cash outflow and right now there is a raging torrent of the stuff gushing from my bank account.

Look for used, I bought my Baldor for 40 buck at a flea market. Needed some cleaning but once cleaned runs great, it’s a 1750 speed.

Check pawn shops and Craig’s list if you are looking for a Baldor.

If money is an issue and you need it now, you can’t go wrong with the HF 6 inch. The speed is not that big an issue.

H.F also has a plug in speed adjuster I would guess its just a variable resistor. I have been using it with no ill effects to the buffer. but it adds another $20 u can use another 20% coupon.

There is also the build your own approach. I would look for most any American made TEFC totaly enclosed fan cooled motor. Baldor motors are the best, but there are a lot of well made tefc motors that are up to the task. I would scour Craigs List and check with motor rewinding shops to find an appropriate motor. Open frame motors, do not fare well in a dirty shop.

I would recommend a belt guard, and placing the switch in a better location, it you decide to do something similar.

Here is my set up, for a little food for thought. It offers a good deal of speed and wheel size variability. Just tossing out ideas.

Charlie

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdOV5ktMt94

Geez, I'd hate to be impaled by that thing walking into the garage. I like those tapered arbors they make changing buffers quick and easy. I went ahead and bought the HF 6" buffer today, after discount and coupon I paid $20 for it. But as usual, I couldn't get out of there without spending another $113 on a bunch of other goodies. Managed to get the buffer and a 15# anvil home on the motorcycle.

Originally Posted by spazola

There is also the build your own approach. I would look for most any American made TEFC totaly enclosed fan cooled motor. Baldor motors are the best, but there are a lot of well made tefc motors that are up to the task. I would scour Craigs List and check with motor rewinding shops to find an appropriate motor. Open frame motors, do not fare well in a dirty shop.

I would recommend a belt guard, and placing the switch in a better location, it you decide to do something similar.

Here is my set up, for a little food for thought. It offers a good deal of speed and wheel size variability. Just tossing out ideas.

Charlie

Nice setup Charlie. What do you use the left side spindle for ? Seems a little less free space.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Nice setup Charlie. What do you use the left side spindle for ? Seems a little less free space.

I started with the shaft centered pillow blocks. I figured out it worked better with long shaft and extra clearance so I shifted the shaft to right. I use the long side 90% of the time. I use the short side on rare occasions. I told myself I would get a longer one but I never have.

Hindsight, only need one long side, put switch in better spot, make belt guard.

Charlie

Here's one Randy pulled off:
[URL="http://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/88502-tapered-thraded-mandrel-buffer-sander-finished.html"]
~Richard

I thought about getting the tapered spindles for ease of changing wheels, but with 3 buffers I can line up a progression on the bench, (you don’t need to bolt them down) so changing wheels is not a big issue. I usually buff a bunch of razors at a time.

I also learned you do not need to torque the nuts holding the wheels down, hand tight is plenty good. I do use some larger washers about 1.5 in. OD, (the Baldor came with some nice larger ones) and a small piece of PVC pipe to space the wheels out further away from the motor, so there is just enough space to thread the nut on. Compressing the washers and the wheel by hand is enough to keep them on tight. I can almost change wheels as fast as Charlie… almost.

If your wheels are slipping, you are using too much pressure. The tapered spindles do space the wheels out further, but then you need more space on the bench, it’s a trade off. The distance from the motor has never really been an issue for me with this set up.