Thread: First project

Pictured on the left is my first project razor. The scales that were on it are not the correct ones. I will be making some out of Oak.
I need some suggestions on this. Right now I'm using 600 grit wet/dry and liquid penetrating oil to sand the blade to a finish. Next will be 1000 grit, and then higher I suppose to get a mirror finish.
I don't think I will take all the pits out, but does anyone have any suggestion about the rust on the blade edge? What is the best method for removing it?

Just a thought. you may want to get a bevel set on that to make sure the pitting isn't too deep it interfere with the shave-ability of the edge. I can't tell one way or the other from the pictures but it is a good idea when you have rust right down to the edge. Otherwise it looks like you are on track. When you get near the end if you use steel wool with polish it will take the black out of any remaining pits. 0000 steel wool won't scratch up the blade deeply either. you will be able to take those out with straight polish.

Originally Posted by RezDog

Just a thought. you may want to get a bevel set on that to make sure the pitting isn't too deep it interfere with the shave-ability of the edge. I can't tell one way or the other from the pictures but it is a good idea when you have rust right down to the edge. Otherwise it looks like you are on track. When you get near the end if you use steel wool with polish it will take the black out of any remaining pits. 0000 steel wool won't scratch up the blade deeply either. you will be able to take those out with straight polish.

Would you tape the spine to set the bevel? As of now I only have one stone. The coarsest stone I have is a 1000 on one side and 6000 on the other.

To tape or not to tape has been a long standing debate. I always tape the spine. 1000 is typically a good bevel setter. All you need to do is get a solid and clean bevel all the way along, free of deep pits and especially areas chipping off because the are too porous to support an edge. If you have no experience at bevel setting the W&B might be a tall task. The edge doesn't look to be a nice even edge with the spine. The edge should follow as close to parallel to the spine as practical. This might be a good time to find a mentor in your area to give you a lesson on bevel setting. If you have little sharpening skills it may not be a task to tackle from online learning. They say a picture is worth a thousand words. I'm sure a live demonstration is priceless.

I said W&B but I'm uncertain what the tang stamp actually says.

Im pretty sure I can set the bevel if the pits are not too deep.. If I want to remove some metal and take the edge off getting rid of the pits completely. .. would a belt sander with 1000 be a good choice for removing the edge while keeping a bevel? Taping the spine to keep from thining the whole razor.

I guess what I mean is would it be a propper method for repair?

No. That sound dreadful. You most likely will kill that poor razor dead. You really only need to hone it out. If you want to get that old girl up and shaving it is going to have to get honed at some point. Belt sanders work good for knives, but this is a razor. they are much more delicate. They do use a specialized belt sander for making razors and knives, but something tells me that isn't really the kind of sander you are talking about. I really think you should find an experienced member that lives near you and follow their lead and learn something new. You could also put the restore on hold until you get the honing thing figure out.

JustN

Contact member Modine who is in Lees Summit and also member nun2sharp. These guys can hook you up with all the help you need. Lots of help in and around KC. Don't do anything drastic until you talk to somebody local.........

Sand to as high a grit as you can get then move to metal polish Autosol, MAAS etc
Personally I would not use a sander on it
If you don't have a dedicated hone, Check the bevel with a 320-500 grit W&D paper working at a 45 angle for the edge, plenty of vids on here about it,
and if good you don't need to remove all the pitting

I would also suggest getting some in person demonstration if you can hook up with someone. That blade looks to be toe heavy from the pictures, if you started honing now your going to have a varying angle along the bevel. But that's just my opinion from the pictures, it's hard to tell what you're working with without measuring it. A pair of digital calipers is priceless IMO with dealing with restore that need alot of balancing work and making a new blade.