Thread: Otto Deutsch 6/8ths I need help. Order of operation vs. Leave it alone

It was on my bucket list . Got Ebayed but didnt see this one coming.
1) how do I proceed see images below input valued.

First Ebay pics.
2nd my before pics
3rd what I found at this point.

Quarantined, Coat of Tuffglide ,stored open , out of UV light.
Question, Use as is? If no then cut off end before buffing? Seems that the stress of buffing machine would further stress crack.
Reshape toe end first, resand for any remaining pits. Buff to mirror. Save money for new scales? Is this the proper way to proceed to save , I would like to keep this one. Input please.
Shaved with it as is. preformed like it is made out to be. Outstanding. Now how to not wreck what cant be replaced?

Disclaimer : I actually have almost zero knowledge and absolutely no idea of what I'm talking about.

If it were mine, I would just continue shaving with it and store it open on it's own. It would probably outlive me.

Barber notch it with a small dremel type grinder bit used in a drill on slooowww with a light touch and regular cooling
With grind rotation starting from the spine and grinding into the crack
Even a dose of CA glue to help hold it and stop vibration might help

Originally Posted by Substance

Barber notch it with a small dremel type grinder bit used in a drill on slooowww with a light touch and regular cooling
With grind rotation starting from the spine and grinding into the crack
Even a dose of CA glue to help hold it and stop vibration might help

Now that's an idea, see I told you I didn't know anything

Is the other thing that you are concerned that the pitting was caused by cell rot? I do like the idea of how to reshape the toe.

To me the beauty of those razors are all in the scales,If a case of cell rot? it has a terminal cancer,your call.
If it hones and shaves well,leave it as is, (the crack) JMO

One of the best looking, cell-rot prone razors ever. It would cost a lot to do new scales, inlay-transfers, shortening the blade past the crack. They are going by the wayside every day, IMO. Sad! Soak the scales in 3M wet type silicone. It helps.

Originally Posted by RezDog

Is the other thing that you are concerned that the pitting was caused by cell rot? I do like the idea of how to reshape the toe.

I am concerned about cell rot. Wasn't sold that this is what I have yet. But know that the scales are prone to it. Right now when I hold it up to the light, shine flashlight through scales ,I see uniformity throughout the scales. Smell test Zero. Well tuffglide. I sanded deeper than all the rust , staining, early cell rot. I do like the barbers notch Idea. thinking about epoxy along crack on both sides of blade before I would try said procedure.
Down the road I will want to get it done in acrylic. I have had some good clean-ups of other blades, I want to continue to get better . If the community can detail the procedure, I am game to try. I want to also confirm no cell rot before continuing. I was thinking a 2 week quarantine and see what develops blade wise. Your thoughts please.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

One of the best looking, cell-rot prone razors ever. It would cost a lot to do new scales, inlay-transfers, shortening the blade past the crack. They are going by the wayside every day, IMO. Sad! Soak the scales in 3M wet type silicone. It helps.

You know you are dead on again. If and big if no cell rot I would pay for the inlay-transfers. I will go to library for more info on wet silicone. What is its purpose? Length of protection? I cant undo the crack. The Barbers notch idea appeals to me over shortening the blade. Go from least invasive to most. Heres the real problem. I have been in love with this razor since I first saw one. So right now I am a deer in the headlights. I have stalked it for so long , now all I want to do is save it, restore it.
Definitely appreciate input thank-you .

I have written about the 3M before. In my automotive work, I have used it for years on plastic and rubber parts. It goes in and rejuvenates, brings back flexibility and color. Some will say it does no good on celluloid, but I am a believer. I have many rot-prone scales in my collection. I treat them once a year. I clean the scales with diluted simple green and a toothbrush, after drying well, I slather the scales inside and out. Let it sit on a hard surface, turn over a few times. Repeat next day. Let sit another day.There should be little excess to wipe off after. Makes the colors pop again. Seems to keep the rot at bay, for me, anyway!



As to the crack, I would suggest taking the blade back past the crack in original configuration.
A razor like this with a barber's notch would not look right, JMO.