Results 1 to 10 of 11
Thread: Straightening warped tang
Hybrid View
-
09-08-2014, 12:16 AM #1
Lately I have been doing the process without the heat block paste. I have been using a big vise for a heat sink and am careful where I point the torch. I am heating the tang to dull red then bend. I have had good luck as long as I am mindful of where the torch is pointing.
Try it on a scrap razor, you can see by the colors where the heat is going and where the vise will stop the heat. As soon as it is bent I grab it with pliers and cool it off in water.
I think if you try it without the heat block on a scrap razor you will be surprised how well you can control the heat.
CharlieLast edited by spazola; 09-08-2014 at 12:18 AM. Reason: fonixs
-
The Following User Says Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:
Deckard (09-08-2014)
-
09-08-2014, 02:07 AM #2
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Posts
- 1,898
Thanked: 995I agree with Charley here. The large metal mass will give you enough heat sink to get the job done and careful where you point the torch.
-
09-08-2014, 07:43 PM #3
I'm not sure what it is called in the UK, but heat stop is just refractory mortar. It doesn't actually stop the rest of the blade from heating up, it just doesn't crumble into dust at high temperature.
I would try the three pin pressure method in a vise first - even if it is heat treated. If that doesn't work then go to the torch with the tang clamped vertically in the vice.Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead - Charles Bukowski
-
09-09-2014, 12:07 PM #4
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Deckard For This Useful Post:
spazola (09-09-2014)
-
09-09-2014, 12:41 PM #5
I've heard of people using a potato as a heat sink! Haven't tried it myself though.
-
09-12-2014, 02:07 AM #6
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Republica de Tejas
- Posts
- 2,792
Thanked: 884I'm with Charlie on this one. I 'd try the vise and sandwiching the blade between two fairly healthy pieces of aluminum or copper as either will absorb heat faster than steel.
I used to pull the surface case hardening on Springfield rifle receivers for drilling scope mount holes for the screws by heating a piece of copper tubing that was pressed against the surface of the receiver rings. I'd heat the copper red hot with a torch and it would pull the case hardening in an area the size of the copper tubing. Made it a LOT easier to drill.
You could probably by a foot or so of 3/4" copper tubing, cut it into 1" lengths and then smash them flat with a hammer. I'd think a couple on either side of the tang and then tightened down in the vice would give you a good heat sink provided you didn't get crazy and heat the whole tang red for any length of time. Might think about wrapping a wet cloth around the blade as well and watch for steam. The wet cloth will also act as a heat sink and help protect the blade.Member Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club, participant SE Asia War Games 1972-1973. The oath I swore has no statute of limitation.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Wullie For This Useful Post:
Deckard (09-12-2014)