Results 1 to 10 of 22
Like Tree22Likes

Thread: Getting the rust in the jimps?!?!

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Senior Member BeJay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Communist State of California
    Posts
    1,461
    Thanked: 463

    Default

    A fiberglass pen is a nice tool for a quick cleanup between the scales. If I have the scales off, the polishers with some emery compound does a great job on jimps. If there's a lot of rust I may use a wire brush first.
    Neil Miller and Chevhead like this.

  2. #2
    Senior Member criswilson10's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Easley, SC, USA
    Posts
    1,861
    Thanked: 480

    Default

    For light rust I use a small brass brush. For heavy rust I use a small triangular diamond file, I think it is a 3 mm.
    Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead - Charles Bukowski

  3. #3
    Senior Member blabbermouth Chevhead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Upstate, New York
    Posts
    2,751
    Thanked: 708
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    +1 to the fiberglass pen

  4. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    To remove rust the Dremel Detail abrasive brush is the best thing I have found to remove all the rust between the scales. They are spiral plastic fingered wheels impregnated with grit and come in different grits.

    There will still be a bit on the sides, use an exacto knife to scrape it off.

    To polish the jimps, a worn 600 grit greasless wheel will make them shine like new. A wire wheel or brush will remove the rust but not make them shine.

    Fiberglass pens work well but the fibers are a pain, literally. When I have used them, I do over a large piece of news paper then carefully toss the paper. The fibers get everywhere. Wear safety glasses. You can pick them up at electronic supply stores.

    As said unpinning is the best way, if there is heavy rust at the pin you will not get it by cleaning around it. But if is light rust these Detail Abrasive Brushes, as Dremel call them is the way to go, they come in different grits and sell for about 5-7 dollars. They do last a long time, been using the same one for about a year and still going strong.

    I bought mine from a guy on Ebay and he sold a selection, two of each grit and I think 3 different grits for around 20-25 bucks, as I recall. Shop around Ebay to find a package deal. The ones without the quick-lock are cheaper and work the same.

    Here’s a pic of what they look like, don't know if this was the same vendor I bought from. Here
    ScottGoodman likes this.

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:

    dtrain17 (11-06-2014), Hirlau (11-03-2014)

  6. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    EauClaire,WI
    Posts
    7,685
    Thanked: 3825
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BeJay View Post
    A fiberglass pen is a nice tool for a quick cleanup between the scales. If I have the scales off, the polishers with some emery compound does a great job on jimps. If there's a lot of rust I may use a wire brush first.
    Assure that you really are sanitary with this method. The broken glass fibers can enter skin wherever they lie. Don't Ask!! Yes, a serious pain in the butt!
    They can be used and, perhaps, should be a wash basin running water tool only. The tiny broken off bits of glass are a problem any where they light.
    I spent most of my life's work as an industrial prototype maker and had my bad days with many tools. But, the glass fiber brushes took a long time to use in the most safe manner.
    ~Richard
    Euclid440 and RezDog like this.
    Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    - Oscar Wilde

  7. #6
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    EauClaire,WI
    Posts
    7,685
    Thanked: 3825
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Lots of ways suggested above. All good for their practitioners! A Dremel / flex shaft with speed control is useful. The thin brass and stainless steel brushes do a good job. Again, the bristles of the metal brushes do break off and I have had to get them out of my feet later because, for light, I used the Kitchen table and the bits went onto the floor.
    Any tool works for many jobs, and when learned can be a wonderful aid. Plan ahead!
    ~Richard
    RezDog likes this.
    Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    - Oscar Wilde

  8. #7
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    +1 on the flex shaft, makes the tool a lot safer and allows more detail, a lighter touch.

    I have one of the cheap HF rotary tools, it also is small, very light and low powered so it forced you to use a light touch, which keeps you out of trouble.

    I used it until I got a flex shaft. Flex shafts can be purchased for 10-15 bucks, a good investment.
    Geezer likes this.

  9. #8
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    When shopping for a flex shaft, make sure it will fit your tool. Dremel has a different thread (coarse thread) than my Ryobi (fine thread) for example.

    Remove the bit and collet and unscrew the end to see the thread type.

    You can find rotary tools and flex shaft cheap, 5-10 buck at flea markets.
    Geezer likes this.

  10. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Dacusville,SC
    Posts
    290
    Thanked: 44

    Default

    I use the rotary tool with a flex shaft. Works well. The one thing I do is put the blade in a small vise with rubber pads. that way both hands are free to work.
    Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic!

  11. #10
    Veteran OldTraf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    82
    Thanked: 5

    Default

    I also use the HF Drillmaster rotary tool. I bought it for the screw cap that holds the collet. My dremel is old (early 70's to work on N gauge model trains). I also have the speed controller from that era. I needed a different size screw cap because the new flex shaft needed a different thread size than the old dremel. When I got the HF Drillmaster home noticed it used a 12v DC power supply. Plugged it into the old dremel speed controller and voila, got it slow enough to work well, but so slow that too much pressure stopped its motor. It takes the dremel collets and tools. So far I have used it with the polishing pads that look like scotchbrite, felt pads with 240 greaseless and Mother's chrome polish. Haven't encountered kickback or anything similar. It takes a looonng time to get through the gook, but doesn't scratch.
    OldTraf
    Mind the toe, and the heel, 'twill follow.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •