Thread: Handsanding.. Sanding sticks?

Hey all, I'm hand sanding some pits out, it's obviously a lot of work. I was wondering if anyone had used these before? http://www.amazon.com/Sanding-Stick-...bxgy_hi_text_y

Seems like a good alternative to what I've been doing, which is using my finger as a sanding block (also somewhat dangerous with a straight).

Or any suggestions? There's a hand-sanding thread where a guy posts a pic of his set up, but the links are broken.

-Thanks

I have a set and have used them on occasion. I do not really use them much. I usually wrap sand paper around the shape I need for a particular task.

I really like EDM stones.

Charlie

Yea, they work.

You can make your own with a cut down paint stir stick a bit wider for more coverage or a ice cream or coffee stir stick clipped straight for detail and cutting sandpaper into strips the width of the stick, sand the tip to about a 45 degree angle.

I also use a wine cork with one end cut straight off so you can get the corner of where the blade meets the stabilizer. A set of soft strips that match the width of the cork, leather and craft foam, wrapped with sand paper allow you to match any profile.
Before you cut your sand paper spray the back with spray glue and let dry, it will make them just a bit sticky to stay on the stick better.

Sand 5-10 strokes up and down move the sander until the whole blade faces is covered in uniform scratches, then sand heel to toe to remove that scratch pattern. If you sand this way you will not end up with deep scratches that show up in you finish. Make a scratch pattern then replace it with another 90 degrees to the other direction.

I start with 600 then go from there, drop down to 400 or 320 rarely go below that, I do a 320, 400, 600 and 1000 finish, hand polish or buffer.

Once you have an even scratch patter, the finishing grits 400, 600 and 1000 go quickly.

Careful handsanding can maintain crisp edges and detail that heavy buffing can round off, there is a place for both.

One thing I forgot to mention, mark your sand paper with the grit, in a bright colored marker, in several places of the strips width, on the back before you spray the glue, just a mist of glue is all you need.

If not you may go bonkers trying to figure out what the grit size is and end up going in the wrong direction on your progression.
Dirty 600 and 400 look alike.

Originally Posted by MrMike

Hey all, I'm hand sanding some pits out, it's obviously a lot of work. I was wondering if anyone had used these before? http://www.amazon.com/Sanding-Stick-...bxgy_hi_text_y

You can make your own.
Hand sanding a blade - Straight Razor Place Library

I most often use corks from wine bottle for my sand paper backer, except for the flat areas, then it is glues to thin pieces of wood. Euclid440 is right on the labeling. The cork is easy to shape too.

I can't use my fingers like this. Dowels and cut offs with leather glued to them works wonders. There is a good dubl duck restore with video showing off what I am talking about.

Reaper restore Sanding part 1: Reaper restore Sanding part 1 - YouTube

10Pups did the video as part of a series in the forum here
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...es-reaper.html

Try Em out.

Charlie, read about EDM stones a while back on a knife forum, and most have good things to say about them, but no one really explains how they use them.

Do you use a holder?

What size do you use, they seem very thin?

What grits do you use most often?

Is the 400 & 600 grit similar to wet & dry grit? Guys are saying they are removing file marks with 600 grit, is that possible?

What do you use as a lubricant? Some swear by Windex.

Do you shape them, curved or angle the ends or just use the end corner.

By the way, I have enjoyed your post and videos over the years, keep up the great work.

Thanks

Marty

wd-40 works well. Especially in the lower grits.

I personally like using a pink eraser as a sanding pad/backing. Any stiff eraser is good for this. Plus if you need a specific shape, just like doing detail erasing when drawing, you can cut the eraser to the size and shape for the job. This way you can use all the paper you have at hand without going and buying different grits of sticks. However a little disclaimer. There will be some applications (i.e. Very tight spots) that is best to use the sticks for since it can be hard to get the paper to a small and sturdy enough point for the job.