Thread: Inlays In Acrylic/Plastic

I have a razor that needs scales and the original ones were plastic with an inlay. Figured I would try to replicate the scales, but I couldn't think of a way to set the inlay "in" the plastic and not just on top. I know they used to set the inlays in the plastics when forming the scales in a mold, but since I can't do that I need to find a new way. Found some info on here about using heat so thought I would test it out. After quite a few attempts with different methods I got it to work, but when setting the inlay into the scales the excess plastic had to go somewhere so it pushed up around the edges of the inlay. At first I thought someone just glued the inlay on the originals, but after my heat experiments I noticed it looked exactly the same. It doesn't really look that bad if you do it carefully and slowly, but you can still see the bunched up plastic if you look closely. Anyway I was just wondering if anyone was able to improve on this method or found another one that will work. If I could justify buying a laser engraver it would make things so much easier. I am thinking I will just have to go with an overlay or just go with wood and try to cut out an inlay which I am not good at. Guess practice makes perfect.

I use a heat method and pray! I then use fine abrasives like milady's fingernail buffs to even the job out. I have used the "Hot Stuff" Superthin CA and still do on some occasions for lay on and sticking down corners, etc..
~Richard.

Maybe I will give it a few more tries and try to sand around the edges to smooth things out. I was just looking at some test and was thinking of pushing the inlay pretty deep and trying to sand flush.

lasers do make it easier. http://straightrazorpalace.com/attac...krazor-005.jpg

Originally Posted by JSmith1983

Maybe I will give it a few more tries and try to sand around the edges to smooth things out. I was just looking at some test and was thinking of pushing the inlay pretty deep and trying to sand flush.

That would be my suggestion. The pushed out plastic can come off easily.
I think that many of the logos etc. were emplaced with a contoured hot stamp pad machine rather than floating around in the mold cavity. That just from being around the "Remembrance Advertising" business for a few years. Hot stamping was the way to do that and many other artistic additions to a product or souvenir..
~Richard

For a small metal inlay into plastics I use thermal grease on the bottom side of the metal to stick the metal to plastic and align it. Then I use a clean soldering gun to heat the metal up and push it down into the molten plastic to the point that it is almost flush with the surface. Then I remove the heat and quickly flip the plastic over and rock or roll the part against a flat or curved board to bring the metal flush with the plastic surface.

For large metal pieces I trace the piece onto the plastic and then excavate out the plastic using a mini router plane (not a power tool) and a razor knife with a depth setting on it. You can do the same thing with a gouge. I've seen people do it with a Dremel tool, but I don't trust those things.

A laser cutter is definitely easier. For complex metal inlays into plastic I will often use a laser cutter to raster an image onto the plastic, remove the waste and repeat the cycle until I hit the depth that I want. Somehow I always feel like I'm cheating when I do it that way though.