Thread: Show The World How You've Modified Your Tools To Work For What You Needed/Razors etc

For making accurate wedges I use a drum sander and modified door wedge - accurate and also means I still have some fingerprints remaining.

[QUOTE=UKRob;1463048]For making accurate wedges I use a drum sander and modified door wedge - accurate and also means I still have some fingerprints remaining.

Nice job Rob.
That door wedge if it was flat & thin looks like it could be from an old straight razor strop/box.

Nice little set up Rob.

Originally Posted by UKRob

For making accurate wedges I use a drum sander and modified door wedge - accurate and also means I still have some fingerprints remaining.

Nice.
Idea stolen!!
Thanks

Rob, that is a winning combination!

Ok, guys, my secret potion/remedy; or how to save a lot of experimentation:

The-Complete-Metalsmith-an-Illustrated-Handbook-Tim-McCreight

"'Tim McCreight is a well-known American author, teacher and jeweler. He has been working in metals since 1973. He has an MFA from Bowling Green University and he taught for over 30 years in a number of schools, including the Maine College of Art. He consults for industry, teaches workshops internationally and he is the author of 16 previous books."'

The advantage to these books is that you will have a good insight into the non-ferrous metals and how to work with and finish them. At the very least, you will have an idea what to look for, on line, when the given information is not a complete as you would wish.

I have been a metal-smith/ craftsman in various forms for a lot of years..maybe 60+? I became aware of his books in the early '90s. A good friend, college metals' instructor, and gunsmith passed the books on to me to read. I have had at least one of his titles in my shop since. I often take for granted what I have learned from him but would not be aware of without his information.

~Richard

Originally Posted by Geezer

Rob, that is a winning combination!

Ok, guys, my secret potion/remedy; or how to save a lot of experimentation:

The-Complete-Metalsmith-an-Illustrated-Handbook-Tim-McCreight

"'Tim McCreight is a well-known American author, teacher and jeweler. He has been working in metals since 1973. He has an MFA from Bowling Green University and he taught for over 30 years in a number of schools, including the Maine College of Art. He consults for industry, teaches workshops internationally and he is the author of 16 previous books."'

The advantage to these books is that you will have a good insight into the non-ferrous metals and how to work with and finish them. At the very least, you will have an idea what to look for, on line, when the given information is not a complete as you would wish.

I have been a metal-smith/ craftsman in various forms for a lot of years..maybe 60+? I became aware of his books in the early '90s. A good friend, college metals' instructor, and gunsmith passed the books on to me to read. I have had at least one of his titles in my shop since. I often take for granted what I have learned from him but would not be aware of without his information.

~Richard

Thank you Richard
I already have a copy headed my way.

For those of you who may have a tube or bottle of CA that has not dried up yet but the tip is clogged. I have previously cut more off the tips but still had them clogged shut so I used a very small drill bit which I have used for drilling out jets on a motorcycle carb or drill bit used in watch repair are the same type if anyone has any laying around. I put the small drill bit in a pin vise & cleared the hole out so that I could use the CA.

So, for those of you using the Micro Max 200, 60-100X scope, and the Micro Max LED, here is a simple way to protect your blade from biting the plastic end of the scope.

If you have ever used one of these and slid the scope along the edge and heard a “tink” sound, the edge has cut into the plastic and when you pulled away, you probably chipped the edge, sometimes you get lucky and there is no damage, but…

Buy a sheet of 9X12, 2mm craft foam, from Wally Mart or the craft store, get the PVA glue backed one (1-2 bucks) or use some clear silicone for easy removal, if not glue backed.

Remove the clear plastic base from the scope, slides off forward. Set the base on the sheet and trace the shape. The yellow stuff on mine is old glue, PVA is easier and quicker to replace when needed.

Cut to shape with a sharp scissor or Exacto knife.

Stick onto the bottom of the base, trim if needed.

Cut out the hole with an Exacto Knife, does not have to be perfect, and slide the base back on the scope, it will click when all the way on.

After a few uses the edge will cut a small groove in the foam that makes for easy edge alignment and focusing. It will protect your edge but eventually will need replacing, so it might be a good idea to cut a few extras, while you are at it. Actually last a long time, about a year with heavy use.

Just takes a few minutes to make, but works great... The LED is the same but smaller.

If you used a non-compressible shim on only the forward end of the scope, you wouldn't have to worry about the razor touching anything. Right? Then you wouldn't have to replace anything either. And you could mark the base in order to index the edge, too.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

If you used a non-compressible shim on only the forward end of the scope, you wouldn't have to worry about the razor touching anything. Right? Then you wouldn't have to replace anything either. And you could mark the base in order to index the edge, too.

A picture here would be worth about 100 words (to me).