Thread: Wade and Butcher near wedge

Found this on the bay. Just looking for suggestions on what techniques to use on something with this level of rust. I would like to retain as much as the etch as possible. My intention for this straight is to restore it to shave ready but not a full restoration. Ideally I get rid of all rust and most of the tarnishing and leave whatever pitting that doesn't effect the usability of the blade. I plan on trying things on other straights first to get a good feel for what effects each technique will have as I don't want to cut my teeth on something like this. I have been reading the media tumbler thread and that looks appealing though it doesn't address the rust and pitting. I have also been reading a lot of the hand sanding stuff and was wondering it there was a good way to keep from dishing out or rounding off things. I figure good use of rubber or cork as a backer instead of a thumb or finger. I guess just mostly wondering what ways you more seasoned vets would use in order to bring it back without taking away from the character or its ability to shave.

thanks in advance,
John
http://
http://
http://

I don't think a media tumbler is going to remove that.

Hooofah. I'm going to wait on the more experienced blade restorer, but it looks doomed. Only metal removal will tell.

Welcome to SRP! All kinds of experts as you may have already seen.

Best I can say is to attack the active rust first. Soak the active rust in some sort of penetrating oil. Work the rust with a pencil-point occasionally. Wipe off and repeat. Then, penetrating oil and a light dremel wire brush run slowly and rotating toward the cutting edge while avoiding the etch. Wipe, soak, repeat. See what is under there.

there has been a couple of posts on re etching missing engraving. I don't think it is for the first time restorer. You could follow the instructions given thus far and be very careful to preserve what you can and then revisit some time later when you learn more or send it to someone to re etch later as well. First thing is first though, start the process of removing what rust you can and getting a better look at what is there. There is no telling how deep it runs until you get there. Good luck, and be patient and work it slowly.

I usually use CLR and a brass brush to get most of it off. Do NOT soak the blade in the CLR. Apply a small amount with a tooth brush and scrub with brass brush. Rinse with water occasionally to check progress.

So you don’t care about the etch?

Cut off the rust with a single edge Razor blade to see how deep it goes, clean with WD40 and steel wool.
Then hand sand. Start with 320 and go up or down from there.

Tumbler will round off all the edges and still not get the pitting. Buffing or sanding is the only way.

Make a backer by cutting a piece of wine cork flat wrap with Wet and sand.

Except for the rust, it looks in nice condition.

I would like to keep the etching intact as best as possible, and I am not so concerned with pitting, more interested in getting off the rust and seeing if it can take an edge. I just realized I didn't post a pic of the scales, they have pretty extensive parasite damage, is there a good resource for period scales?

Scrape the crusty rust with a knife or similar
Then I have found Evaporust to work very well and doesn't damage good steel
Then say hello to the sanding cramps using a cork or similar hard backer with as high low 600 maybe grit to start then work to a finer grit
With heavy pitting or rust you may need to go a lower grit also
Check out the how too's in the search for this info also

Note the CLR will eat your good steel on the blade also if left to long soaking

For scales
Trace the originals or search for the "scales PDF" then print the ones you want at 1:1
all good

Fooled around with some 400 grit sand paper and rubber contoured sanding blocks: