Thread: G10 Polishing - What's your method?

Originally Posted by Maximilian

Getting the scratches out in G10 is the most difficult task. I spend most my time on the lower grits up until 600. Then I move on to 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, followed with white rouge on my buffer. If I see any tiny surface scratches left I go back to 400 or 600, depending the depth of the scratch, and move back up again all the way to the buffer. This is what works for me.

Wish I would have seen this two days ago, some very good info there Max. Thank you!

Just finished putting a Joseph Rodgers & Sons in a set of G10 and had a real hard time getting most of the scratches out. I used 1200 grit before going to Chromium Oxide on the buffer. There are still some very light scratches left but I figure you'll have those just from normal use so I'm not going to worry too much about them.

Originally Posted by Geezer

Wet sand and with water and then throw out the water; carefully like down a drain, not onto the lawn. The little pieces of glass fiber will be in the air forever and pets will have the problems. Ditto if your kids and pets hang out in your shop.
Paying a price
~Richard

That is the reason I only work with kirinite. That is acrylic, and relatively safe.
G10 should be treated like asbestos, and since my daughters are in my shop sometimes, I don't want G10 or Micarta dust there.

Originally Posted by tab

Thanks for all the input and ideas. I had read the dust was bad so a respirator was in use...

Any dust that got thrown around and settles somewhere in your workshop will stay a hazard as long as it is there.
If you wear respirators while grinding, and then next week you disturb the dust wile not wearing respirators, you're still breating in the nasty stuff.

Hobby lobby has sandpaper wet/dry up to 12k.