Thread: Thoughts on Caswell kit?

I'm hoping members can chime in about the "basic" straight razor polishing kit on the Caswell Plating website. I've wanted to try my hand at simple restoring/polishing, and this seems to have all the essentials in one package. Link is below.

Of course, I could save a "lot" of money at HF, but previous advice from members about avoiding high RPM machines has given me pause.

Is the Caswell kit a good choice ... better to buy components separately ... anything else? Thanks for your insights!

Basic Straight Razor Polishing Kit - Straight Razor Buffing Kits - Buffing Kits - Buffing/Polishing - Caswell Inc

It looks retry good as far as contents go. I have no idea about the price, but Caswells generally sells decent tools. I want a true buffer, so you have me thinking, my setup is a little bit haywire. I do have to add in here that there is a learning curve on buffers. You can blow the lines out on razors really easily as well as ruining the temper. Proceed with caution and perhaps buy some true junk blades for practice. I am not a highly skilled person with the buffer and still spend a lot of time hand sanding.

That would not be my choice. Harbor Freight sells a 6" buffer that works fine for about $40.00. Spend the money you've saved on 4" spiral sewn cotton wheels (2 per grit) and greaseless compounds from Caswell. 80, 180, 240, 400, 600 ought to get you started. You can fill in other grits if you think you need them. For dry grease compounds I prefer to buy from Jantz Supply their medium cut LA312 and LA855 Black Magic bars. For a final polish I use Caswell's Blue Buffing Compound.
I'm sure you'll get lots of opinions here and there is certainly more than one way to skin this cat. I would recommend you read GSSIXGUN's buffing article here in the forums. I think it's titled 'walking a razor through the buffing wheels'.
Good luck,
Karl

Actually, it was GSSIXGUN's article that got me thinking about this. He makes everything look easy! I think it would be a blast to play with the process (and the new toys), but I don't want to get banged up in the process--or trash even a junk razor. A lot of education still to come ...

I love the prices at HF, but those high-speed wheels might be iffy, particularly for a rank beginner. On the other hand, I could put the $$ toward supplies, as you suggest. A leather apron is in my future.

The buffer speed is based on a 6 inch wheel. The periphery of a 4 inch wheel is turning less than the advertised 3450 RPM and smaller wheels will be even slower. There is a formula to calculate that. I do not find wheel speed to be an issue. NEVER try to polish/buff a blade with the cutting edge up. ALWAYS buff from the spine to the bevel or even lengthwise. With the bevel up it's just a matter of time until the wheel catches the blade and does some really horrible things and at that point it makes no difference if it's turning at 1100 RPM or 3700 RPM.

The HF buffers work fine. They run a little hot but they do what they are supposed to. 4" wheels are the best on razors IMO. If it fits in your budget I would get tapered spindles and use even smaller wheels. Another thing to consider is the mess. Buffers throw compound a long way. Razors too :<0) So consider where you will set them up and make a padded back board for them. You will toss a few in the learning curve trust me. Something else to think about is what direction it will fly if it does grab. Keep your fingers on the opposite side of the edge at all times. No sense losing a finger while you learn.

Keep the comments coming. I've already learned quite a bit.

The buffers throw a lot of waste, hmm. Hadn't thought of that.

Thanks for all, so far.

When I get a chance and the rain lets up, I am going to take a few pics out in a "Working Shop" there is Compound and Polishing dust EVERYWHERE !!!

So you either need a "Shop" or what some of us that restore fondly call it, a "Dexter Room"

Restoring razors using power tools is dusty and sometimes actually dangerous because of that dust,, I keep two Respirators in a tupperware box across the shop near the door at all times along with two sets of safety glasses.. Nobody not even the wife is allowed in without them...

G10, Micarta, and CF are exceptionally dangerous... Naturals like Horn, Bone, and Ivories are exceptionally smelly and the dust clings to everything

Keep all this in mind when you decide "I am going to Restore razors" there is a big difference between using sandpaper to polish the blades and the old scales, and actually restoring razors using Powertools..

I am by no means trying to dissuade you, just giving you the cold hard facts


ps: Spindle speed is but simply a number there is a complete equation about SFPM and what is actually needed for effective application of different compounds and polishes available on the Caswells site,, READ it..

I may never get past the sandpaper and polishing compounds but your information is very good to know and add to the mental database of complexities sometimes found in this craft/art/hobby field of ours.

Originally Posted by karlej

The buffer speed is based on a 6 inch wheel. The periphery of a 4 inch wheel is turning less than the advertised 3450 RPM and smaller wheels will be even slower. There is a formula to calculate that. I do not find wheel speed to be an issue. NEVER try to polish/buff a blade with the cutting edge up. ALWAYS buff from the spine to the bevel or even lengthwise. With the bevel up it's just a matter of time until the wheel catches the blade and does some really horrible things and at that point it makes no difference if it's turning at 1100 RPM or 3700 RPM.

I am not nitpicking, but I don't want anyone to be confused by this.

RPMs are RPMs regardless of the size of the wheel. The speed at the edge of the wheel will increase as the size of the wheel increases at a given RPM, but a 3450 RPM buffer is going to run at 3450 RPMs whether the wheel size is 2 inches or 8 inches.