Thread: Rust removal options

Try the least abrasive first, metal polish, steel wool, wet & dry.
Start with 600 and go lower if needed, or move up if it gets it all. 600 scratches are easy to remove.

It's cleaning up pretty nice. This is only using 600 and maas. It's far from done, but it's way better than it was.

The higher you go in grit the better the polish. Take it up at least to 1k sanding with WD40 alternate sanding from spine to edge and heel to toe with a cork as a backer, polish with good metal polish.

Most automotive parts stores carry up to 2K.

Is the wd40 just for lubrication while sanding with the finer grits?

Originally Posted by gssixgun

DO NOT use chemicals...

Just taking some notes from the pros... could you elaborate as to why a product like Kroil wouldn't be a decent option to aid in rust removal?

Over the years, I've amassed quite an arsenal of similar products, and always looking for an excuse to retreat to my "home testing facilities" [emoji106]

Looks like you may have saved it. Polish up to 2k then hone and check the edge to make sure you got it.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by BlackGOLD

Just taking some notes from the pros... could you elaborate as to why a product like Kroil wouldn't be a decent option to aid in rust removal?

Over the years, I've amassed quite an arsenal of similar products, and always looking for an excuse to retreat to my "home testing facilities" [emoji106]

Kroil is a penetrating oil, like WD40, & I'm sure, not the kind of chemicals Glen's referring to.

Originally Posted by xr88

I just picked up my first straight at an antique mall today. The brand is ESTAS. Anyway the scales are shot but the blade seemed to be in great shape except for two rust spots on either side. I hit them with a little bit of rem oil since I've had good luck with it removing surface rust. It didn't work that great for this. I've read that most people go for either scrubbing bubbles or diluted clr. The blade has some nice gold etching so I just wanted some opinions on how to save the etching while removing the rust.

Originally Posted by BlackGOLD

Just taking some notes from the pros... could you elaborate as to why a product like Kroil wouldn't be a decent option to aid in rust removal?

Over the years, I've amassed quite an arsenal of similar products, and always looking for an excuse to retreat to my "home testing facilities" [emoji106]

Two different things and in this case the Kroil would be fine because the scales were trashed

BUT


You always have to look at each razor individually

With synthetics scales Kroil should not cause issues, but Bone or Ivory could be stained easily

I love Kroil for popping stubborn pins

You just have to think first and attack each issue slowly but also keep in mind that Kroil will have little effect on most of the rust issues with razors,,, it is the pitting under the types of rust that are the real issues, not the surface rust..
You cannot get rid of pitting with anything other then abrasives

Originally Posted by xr88

Is the wd40 just for lubrication while sanding with the finer grits?

Yes, WD40 acts as a lubricant when polishing with high grit wet & dry paper to give a higher polish to steel.

Most any thin oil will work, I like WD40 as it is very thin and inexpensive.

It is also good for cleaning with steel wool and will remove soap and dirt from between scales on a paper towel and coffee stir stick.

After surface rust is scrapped of with a single edge, I work the rust with Q-Tips soaked in vinegar.