Thread: wedge angle

Repeatability is only worth something if you make the same razor multiple times.
Otherwise, each one is different. I just eyeball it and adjust as needed.

Originally Posted by JDM61

Wedge starting thickness would also depend on the grind and the thickness of the stock used ofot he balled, right?

Apologies for not replying earlier -we moved house recently. However, someone already answered the question about wedge thickness - it must be the same as the width of the blade where you want it to rest on the scales. As such, it doesn't matter what the type of grind is - near wedge or full hollow - you still need to the scales to perform a stop on how far the blade fits in. The width of the wedge or spacer dictates that.

Actually, wedges are wedge shaped.
If there is a bit of space between the point and the wedge, The wedge can be a bit smaller because the scales get futher apart when the distance from the wedge gets bigger.

Start at about 1/2 the thickness of the Tang at the Pivot hole, for your material

Sand that down to a wedge shape to about 1/2 the thickness of the scales

Adjust to fit because of the length of the scales you made

Problems are normally that your wedge is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO thick go measure the Vintage ones for comparison most are less then .065" at the end of the razor..
Spacers vs Wedges: Spacers do not allow the razor to Flex correctly, again go look at a Vintage razor and see what I am talking about.

All this is quite obvious if you just take the time to see what those old farts did over all these years


This is a thread I did recently but I can't find it on here so here is a link to it over at TSD, this might help explain with PICS to what everyone is telling you

Some Scale Building Hints: | TheShaveDen


Edit: I did NOT address the Scales themselves here although I do in that thread, regardles on material used it has to be thin enough to be slightly flexible...

Thickness of the wedge does depend on the grind though.
If you have a larger razor, and you want to blade to close to a position close to the spine, a thin wedge will be too thin.
The wedge should be thick enough to allow the hollow to settle on the scales clost to the spine.

All good info above,but in the end wedges need to be hand fitted to the scales and the blade,is no set angle that will work for all.

Thanks to you all! The angle info is the first I have noticed and it gives me a starting point to work from. I've made a lot of scales but now I can get closer to what i need sooner.
Thanks again!
~Richard

A set angle won't work or a set THICKNESS of the wedge? Most of the handles that I see on here seem to have a pretty "splay angle" to the scales before they are pinned.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

All good info above,but in the end wedges need to be hand fitted to the scales and the blade,is no set angle that will work for all.

You may have just provided a good formula. 1/2 tang thickness at the pivot hole for the thick end, 1/2 thickness of the scale for the thin end for the rough wedge blank. Now all that we have to figure out is the length of the wedge to get the finished thin end final thickness down to about 2/3 of the thick end like you did on those ivory scales. Then we shall have our angle. Of course, we still have to figure out that angle of the taper of the tang from the thick part of the spine to the pivot.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Start at about 1/2 the thickness of the Tang at the Pivot hole, for your material

Sand that down to a wedge shape to about 1/2 the thickness of the scales

Adjust to fit because of the length of the scales you made

Problems are normally that your wedge is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO thick go measure the Vintage ones for comparison most are less then .065" at the end of the razor..
Spacers vs Wedges: Spacers do not allow the razor to Flex correctly, again go look at a Vintage razor and see what I am talking about.

All this is quite obvious if you just take the time to see what those old farts did over all these years


This is a thread I did recently but I can't find it on here so here is a link to it over at TSD, this might help explain with PICS to what everyone is telling you

Some Scale Building Hints: | TheShaveDen


Edit: I did NOT address the Scales themselves here although I do in that thread, regardles on material used it has to be thin enough to be slightly flexible...

Originally Posted by JDM61

You may have just provided a good formula. 1/2 tang thickness at the pivot hole for the thick end, 1/2 thickness of the scale for the thin end for the rough wedge blank. Now all that we have to figure out is the length of the wedge to get the finished thin end final thickness down to about 2/3 of the thick end like you did on those ivory scales. Then we shall have our angle. Of course, we still have to figure out that angle of the taper of the tang from the thick part of the spine to the pivot.

That is in the adjustment for length, be careful thinking that this is an exact science, I am simply giving you a starting point

If you start with using that formula then half the battle is done, the rest is fitting it to each razor, and Mock up Bolts and Nuts from Microfasteners or the like will be your new BFF's

Good Luck and please post pics