Thread: CA removal

You have tried so many things now it is hard to know where you are at ...

Shaun aka RezDog gave you the hard but true fact above ie: tedious meticulous work with very sharp tools.. BUT after you softened the glue that might have made a hard job even harder..

Acetone does effect Acrylic too, but to what extent depends on the acrylic...

Myself I haven't found an "Easy" fix to this, just the one with the Visor and the sharp tools..

Let us all know if you find something easier that doesn't mar the scales

Dooey, try zippo lighter fluid to remove the excess smudging. Works awesome for grease, tar, and petroleum based sticky stuff. Will not lift the glue and will not affect the brass.
I use it to clean guitar fret boards like new. Just don't smoke while using it. Alternatively, blunt the tip of the toothpick with your teeth to make a crude paintbrushy end, and use acetone and a 10x loupe as suggested by Shawn.
p.s. It also works the bomb on road tar overspray hitting your car when they are repaving roads. Like all over Canada this time of year.
Good luck.

Acetone, (same thing as nail polish remover) is what they say to use. I have had similar issues but when I get it on my hands, I use sandpaper to get it off. If I need to use some CA on something & I know it is going to take some time, I will use the gel type which takes longer to set up. It really depends on what it is too. I'm very frugal with it, especially the thin type when you have something you don't want it running all over the place plus it sets right away. That's all I can tell ya. The other guys have excellent ideas on how to remove it. You just have to take your time. I also watch out what type of chemicals I use on certain things so I don't screw it up. I have some very small pegged that is used for cleaning jewels on old pocket watches & clocks. I'll have to give it a try next time the issue comes up. The kind I have is 2mm thick but you can file a point on it or do whatever.

Originally Posted by engine46

Acetone, (same thing as nail polish remover) is what they say to use. I have had similar issues but when I get it on my hands, I use sandpaper to get it off. If I need to use some CA on something & I know it is going to take some time, I will use the gel type which takes longer to set up. It really depends on what it is too. I'm very frugal with it, especially the thin type when you have something you don't want it running all over the place plus it sets right away. That's all I can tell ya. The other guys have excellent ideas on how to remove it. You just have to take your time. I also watch out what type of chemicals I use on certain things so I don't screw it up. I have some very small pegged that is used for cleaning jewels on old pocket watches & clocks. I'll have to give it a try next time the issue comes up. The kind I have is 2mm thick but you can file a point on it or do whatever.

\
just get the cheap stuff the more expensive stuff has moisturizers and crap like that you don' need , and get some curlers while your in that isle ,sanding blocks

The "sticks" I mentioned are for pushing your cuticles. They are not sharp, but there is little give to them, so dunking a tip in some acetone, might do the job.

Originally Posted by Orville

The "sticks" I mentioned are for pushing your cuticles. They are not sharp, but there is little give to them, so dunking a tip in some acetone, might do the job.

If you don't want to deal with the sticky mess that you will get with acetone, than 220 grit your way to freedom

Originally Posted by Orville

My daughter has some things for her artwork that look like the shafts for Q-Tips (wood), but pointed at both ends. I will take a closer look tonight and report. These might work for something like this . . .

Stiffer than a toothpick, at any rate.

The skewers used for table top shiskabob are about 2mm and 8" long with a fine tip and easily available at some cheap stores and kitchen stores.

~Richard