The Butchered Blade

Okay, here we go...................

Joseph Rodgers
Attachment 217836

Shumate Trusty
Attachment 217837

Shumate Trusty
Attachment 217902

D. Janitsch in Ivory scales
Attachment 217839

Notice the Trusty has 2 pins holding the covered part to the tang plus has a pivot pin hole. The straights with covered tangs are all ground thinner at the tang to accommodate for the covered part so they won't be so wide but they are wider than the conventional straight razor.

Thanks Harold.
Whenever I try to find one of my razors shown quite awhile back, I go to settings, attachments, then go through all of them until I find what I'm looking for but recently I went through a lot of them & got links to each one & emailed them to myself & put them in a folder. I could have also just put them in a document.

Well it looks like everybody went to bed..
Thought I would post a pic of a shorty project that is screaming for my attention.
I know I know, focus on one project. How many are sitting on the to do project list?
Way too many!!! Ive got enough restore and custom projects to last me years if I put in a few hours a day.. This is my retirement plan... Collect enough blades to keep me busy for 20 years of retirement and then kick the bucket with a hoard of beautiful straight razors to pass down to my kids who I really hope will love to have them and not sell them on the Bay the first chance they get!!! lol Ugh :shrug:

We can assume that MikeT's razors have 'semi covered' tangs. Steel jimps are there. Tail is solid ivory.
Mike's razor, however, is designed so that no steel is visible. "All ivory?'

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

We can assume that MikeT's razors have 'semi covered' tangs. Steel jimps are there. Tail is solid ivory.
Mike's razor, however, is designed so that no steel is visible. "All ivory?'

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Tom
That's one thing I've been trying to figure out if that part is Ivory or not. They are marked up from opening & closing so it's hard to see the grain if they are indeed Ivory. I guess I could use my loupe & compare to some ivory scales. One of my Joseph Rodgers has jimps & the other one doesn't. Other than that, they're identical.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by engine46

Okay, here we go...................

Joseph Rodgers
Attachment 217836

Shumate Trusty
Attachment 217837

Shumate Trusty
Attachment 217838

D. Janitsch in Ivory scales
Attachment 217839

Notice the Trusty has 2 pins holding the covered part to the tang plus has a pivot pin hole. .

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Both the covered tangs have two pins. The pins on your Rodgers are covered up by the scales.. check my post on the previous page. On the ones with the metal that goes all the way to the tip of the tail they have a pin at the end of the tail. On the Rodgers it just goes to where the metal stops..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

We can assume that MikeT's razors have 'semi covered' tangs. Steel jimps are there. Tail is solid ivory.
Mike's razor, however, is designed so that no steel is visible. "All ivory?'

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I wish we had another with an "all covered" to compare to. I just assumed that it was celluloid because it would be a pita to drill out just right.. but then again that never stopped them on other tricky procedures..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeT

I wish we had another with an "all covered" to compare to. I just assumed that it was celluloid because it would be a pita to drill out just right.. but then again that never stopped them on other tricky procedures..

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Mike, I saw that on the Rodgers with the pins. Do the hot pin trick on the broken piece. That way you will know if they are celluloid or if they are something else.
Also you could take the broken piece & get a rag with some Mothers, Maas or Flitz on it, lay the rag flat on a table & rub the piece on it a few times. If it is celluloid, it will have that camphor smell to it. I said it that way because the piece is small but you might be able to put some polish on a rag & polish it with a rag a little to see if it smells like it. Even if it fails the hot pin test you could sand on it a little to see if it smells like camphor. Either way I think you will be able to figure it out. IMHO I doubt it would be bone though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by engine46

Mike, do the hot pin trick on the broken piece. That way you will know if they are celluloid or if they are something else.
Also you could take the broken piece & get a rag with some Mothers, Maas or Flitz on it, lay the rag flat on a table & rub the piece on it a few times. If it is celluloid, it will have that camphor smell to it.

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Oh I should have specified what I was referring to.. I meant I wish we had something like MikeB52 blade that he was showing tonight, completely covered.. I cant remember seeing one before. I figured they would be celluloid. Ive seen a torrey that was similar in some ways with faux MOP covered tang.
Ive got a whole bunch of ivory scaled blades and have worked with it a bunch now, most of the time I can tell if its real just by feel and look, but sometimes the needle is necessary. Never tried the mothers way. I figure my nose would not recognize the smell if I did.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeT

Oh I should have specified what I was referring to.. I meant I wish we had something like MikeB52 blade that he was showing tonight, completely covered.. I cant remember seeing one before. I figured they would be celluloid. Ive seen a torrey that was similar in some ways with faux MOP covered tang.
Ive got a whole bunch of ivory scaled blades and have worked with it a bunch now, most of the time I can tell if its real just by feel and look, but sometimes the needle is necessary. Never tried the mothers way. I figure my nose would not recognize the smell if I did.

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If you ever smelled camphor before, you would know it! If you have some old or broken celluloid scales, try polishing some or sanding on it. You'll never forget that smell again.

Turned in early-ish last night. Brutal week with work and insurance companies.

Yes, Steve's seem to have the centre spine of steel I presumed most do. The one I acquired appears to set into a solid one piece unit originally and has no steel pivot hole connection to speak of.
I have one called Regal that is similar. It's an 'on deck' project.

The original may have been solid, but seeing as how I will be cheating a bit and starting with two halves, thanks to Tom, I will remove inner ivory to fit the razor mooring points, then epoxy it all together prior to drilling the pivot. Then do the tang profiling last.
At least , that's my plan at this point.
Wonder if they had the makers mark in the ivory sides? Like scrimshaw kind of etching.

That JR is still going to be an awesome project MikeT.
Cheers.