Outback, that top razor reminds me of what my Dad used to tell me when I didn't shave my moustache off---> "Kid, your razor must have a hole in the blade.":DQuote:
Originally Posted by outback
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Outback, that top razor reminds me of what my Dad used to tell me when I didn't shave my moustache off---> "Kid, your razor must have a hole in the blade.":DQuote:
Originally Posted by outback
That green is an excellent color! Great job!
I agree, the bottom one I started not to send but the others aren't ready for the bone yard yet. They appear to be hardly used as far as hone wear but extremely used in abuse! The warehouse they were found in also had some new scales so the guy may have been hired to replace broken blades & scales on some of the Herder razors.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
Attachment 245222
The top one won't need amputation but the edge needs work. The other two have cracked blades & need surgery. Two sets of scales are the cross key type & the others are plain.
Today I picked up this already shortened Union Razor Works.
Old job, rust on the toe! I will see if the blade can be saved but I certainly can find a use for the scales.
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Rummaging through the pile to-day and found a candidate for my other set of German Silver scales.
A Frederick Reynolds regrind, a bit shortened as most old regrinds are.
Attachment 245552''
Got everything apart and went for a test-fit. These scales have a bottom in them and are pretty deep. It fit just fine down in there
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The length was pretty tight and I discovered that due to all the slop at the pivot, if the blade was pushed forward, it would not close.
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The issue at the pivot was twofold. First, the sloppy oblong pivot hole in the blade allowed it to walk forward and the oversized holes in the scales (for the original nut/bolt setup) added to the issue.
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Decided to give it a go anyway. The plan was to offset bush the pinhole in the blade and use some of Babur's collars to take the slop out of the pin-holes and top those with some of AJKenne's nickel-silver collars as-pinning it up.
Out to the drill press, my 1/8 trashed carbide tapered reamer chugged through slowly with a drop of oil. Some chamfer....
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I then popped an aluminum pop-rivet in.
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Got it sanded down very close to the tang and then punched the end of the mandrel out.
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I then took the aluminum mandrel and made a pin to peen into the hole.
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As that was accomplished, I sanded the tangs and the bushing simultaneously with 3 grits of Diapads.
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I then went back out to the drill press and using a 1/16 bit, drilled a new pivot hole as forward as I could through my new aluminum 'plug'.
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I then ground a pair of Babur's collars down using a Dremel-drum and the right thickness of sheet-metal as a jig.
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Anyhoo, the next test-fit was a winner. The blade settles in to the unique tapered end of the scales and shall not move again! :D
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Back apart, a bunch of sandy-polishy to go.
Does the detent work with that blade Tom?Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
Nice response to a challenge tom.
Slow, methodical elimination of the sloppiness and voila. A tight razor that looks pretty cool!
Well, Andrew, The hump in the tang is a bit much. It does hold it in tight, but the 'snap' I got transplanting the Henckels blade in the last set is not there, yet the tail does not spread these literal dents in the scales as in the Henckels 66 as the tail is very thin in this one.Quote:
Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY
A bit of a trade-off. Here and there.
The blade/tang does see the scale ramp-up toward the top, yet would never see the top, as it were.
In that regard, I would say it works, just not as spectacularly! :)
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I suppose denting the dents up a bit may help? This stuff is as tough as sterling.
A bit like spring-steel.
It reminds me of a Harley Sportster, a big motor in a little frame. They made many a drag bike outta them back in the day.
