Thread: W&B Question

Hi, I'm in the process of my first restoration project, a Wade and Butcher Bow. Maybe a 3/8th Hollow.

I'm removing the pitting by hand with 400 grit and WD 40, I have a long way to go and now I know that even dull blades cut

This might be a stupid question. The heel end is 16.5mm width and the toe end is 17mm width.

Is there any chance that it was made like this. I would think that some one has honed the heel more than the toe but there is no un even hone ware on the spine to correspond with that.

Also what sized blade is it. I think its too short to be a 6/8th but too wide to be a 5/8ths.

Many thanks.

Many old blades were made with wider toe ends. Blade width is typically judged by the widest point.
A picture?

There is a work in progress thread here http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ml#post1542839 it would be a good place to show what has been done as well as follow along with some others doing a little work too.

That's a relief . I have a feeling I will love shaving with this.

I'm not sure what that 3D toe end is called but I like it a lot ..

Oh yeah! That is a nice one!

Manah's s site strazors.com has a Wade and Butcher history page. On the page there is a really nice catalog depiction of a W & B bow razor marked 3/4. The toe does appear to be wider than the heel. Likewise the Wostenholm pipe razor, which shares a striking resemblance, looks to have a wider toe than heel. I own a pipe razor that was listed in the catalog as 3/4. I suspect it is closer to 11/16 at the toe.

It looks like you are ready to start walking your way up through the grits. Make sure you leave enough to keep the engraving on the blade. Once you have it polished up you can use bluing or Jax Black and get the engraving dark. I have one similar that I did some work on. I have never gotten back to it to get the lettering colored. It's on the list of things to do.

The whole of it is covered in shallow pitting.

I did 3 hours today to remove all the pitting from one side of the blade ( the last picture) not including tang n tale .

I cant take pitting , it gets to me

Originally Posted by RezDog

It looks like you are ready to start walking your way up through the grits. Make sure you leave enough to keep the engraving on the blade. Once you have it polished up you can use bluing or Jax Black and get the engraving dark. I have one similar that I did some work on. I have never gotten back to it to get the lettering colored. It's on the list of things to do.

I polished the etching with my dremel , it was deep grime. But I was thinking that removing the pitting is more important than the etching , to me???

Originally Posted by JOB15

I polished the etching with my dremel , it was deep grime. But I was thinking that removing the pitting is more important than the etching , to me???

If you cannot abide pitting, buy perfect blades. Some of my cleanest blades have a bit. Carbon steel is going to take on some. No need in sanding the blade away for a little dot. JMO