Results 11 to 18 of 18
Thread: Not All That Happy
-
09-26-2015, 04:51 AM #11
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- Orangeville, Ontario
- Posts
- 8,449
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 4206We are our own worse critics Mr Smith.
I think it came out very nicely. Some are front heavy, some back heavy, just like cars. But tighten up the pins and I bet she grows on you..
Nice looking Elliot!
I too would like to know what you used to carve out the inlays.."Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
Steven Wright
https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5
-
09-26-2015, 04:15 PM #12
I used a drill bit and a pin vise. Then used a dremel carving bit to widen and flatten out the holes. They are just dots so didn't need to do anything fancy.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to JSmith1983 For This Useful Post:
puketui41 (09-28-2015)
-
09-26-2015, 05:41 PM #13
Personally, I prefer nickel silver wedges to lead ones (even though historically lead seems to have been much more common). I find that lead loses its lustre quite fast, unlike nickel silver, which is close to the density of lead. It's a bit harder though, so a bit more difficult to work with. But not much.
-
09-26-2015, 06:38 PM #14
That is why I started using cerrobend. It seems to shine up brighter than lead and stay that way longer. It is also soft enough to easily work with. That and the fact that I can melt and mold it at low temperatures.
-
09-26-2015, 11:23 PM #15
-
09-26-2015, 11:41 PM #16
-
09-27-2015, 02:25 AM #17
-
09-27-2015, 08:04 AM #18
What I understand from reading wikipedia for two minutes is that it is considered somewhat toxic and skin contact should be avoided (it is mentioned that this is mainly when in its molten state, though). But I assume you know what you're working with and how to avoid mishaps.
And one should be plenty careful with regular lead as well. With anything, really. Vapours and dust are usually to be avoided, anywho.