Thread: First Razor for Restoration!

And for saving a buck, being careful, and learning a lot while restoring, Cheap tools!:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...storation.html

~Richard

Actually, I tend to go backwards in my hand sanding.

Start with nothing more course than 600 grit to get the top rust off. You truly can not assess the situation until you have it clean. Starting off with a course grit automatically sets deeper scratches that will need to be removed, and can be totally unnecessary. I typically start with 1000 grit. Rub clean, assess. Needs more? Drop a grit. Go again.
Save the original scales. You can use them to draw the patern you will need for the new ones. In the future when you have more experience you can opt to restore them, or use them to practice restorations.
Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Originally Posted by Magpie

Actually, I tend to go backwards in my hand sanding.

Start with nothing more course than 600 grit to get the top rust off. You truly can not assess the situation until you have it clean. Starting off with a course grit automatically sets deeper scratches that will need to be removed, and can be totally unnecessary. I typically start with 1000 grit. Rub clean, assess. Needs more? Drop a grit. Go again.
Save the original scales. You can use them to draw the patern you will need for the new ones. In the future when you have more experience you can opt to restore them, or use them to practice restorations.
Looking forward to seeing the progress.

I also like to start high, then slowly go lower then progress back up again.

I don't wish to hijack this thread. However here's an example of bringing a razor back from the dead but leaving some 'history' to it by starting
'high' and working back down then up.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...n-cleanup.html

I do hope it's of some help.

Well it looks like we are all on the same page. I try to get a good look first off too. I often start with coarse steel wool and WD-40, get the gross mess removed and look at it with a little magnification to try to decide where to go. I am more content to sand forever with 1000 grit than to spend forever try to get all of the 320 scratches out. I rarely drop below 600. I do most of my work by hand and use bottle corks for sandpaper backing. I also mask lines on the blades from time to time in an attempt to not erase them. It also works well when working around etchings. A little tape can go a long way.

Thanks everyone, I'm gonna take the advice I'm getting! I found a couple of 6$ Junkers at an antique store I'm gonna practice on before I try a nice razor! I really appreciate all the good info!

I would get lots of grits of wet/dry and sand wet by hand. I usually start with either 400 or 220 if there is only light damage to avoid taking too much metal off. Then I progress to 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000. This will give you a nice mirror polish, but does take some time! Make sure you spend the time at each grit to get the scratches removed or you will have to start all over!
And yes, start with a razor you don't really want to keep!