Results 21 to 30 of 34
-
11-15-2015, 02:02 AM #21
Thankfully the second blade has not etching but the stamps are on the shank so that works out lol what can u do? I had to muck up sometime it's just too bad it was on this blade.... I can keep kicking myself in the ass or just move on and realize I have 115 other blades to worry about and learn from this one... Never touch anything with a stamp to greaseless to remove patina, patina>pitting so it's better just to leave it as is
-
11-15-2015, 02:30 AM #22
also, I would add to it that it would be easier to practice using buffers on thick wedges as opposed to paper thin hollow grinds. Can easily ruin the temper on those thin blades.
-
11-15-2015, 02:38 AM #23
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Location
- Virginia
- Posts
- 1,516
Thanked: 237Well when you have 115 blades to learn on, it's not always a good idea to choose the most valuable one to start with. Not trying to beat a dead horse here, it's still going to be a really good razor. As far as buffing out the temper of a blade, I hear it mentioned all the time, and I realize it is possible, but how many people have honestly ruined the temper on a blade from buffing? I was under the impression it would have to be hot enough to were you wouldn't be able to hold on to it before it started messing up the steel structure.
-
11-15-2015, 02:57 AM #24
When I have sanding blades, I usually see if it has any kind of etching. There are some razors I have sanded and left the deep pitted areas alone. Yes, I left the ugly black spots. . Or even just sanded it down to nice and shiny, used a dremel to get the pitted areas "cleaned" out. Looks like heck too..... Some blades just need a quick "buff" and all is good. Might not be all shiny and even a little ugly.....but it works.
But don't forget.... a straight razor is a tool. As long as it functions, that in the long run is all that matters.Is it over there or over yonder?
-
11-15-2015, 03:00 AM #25
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- South East Idaho
- Posts
- 103
Thanked: 24Not only did you almost loose all the etching but you blended out all the once crisp lines. If I were going to tackle that blade (any blade) I would have used sand paper with a wine cork for backing and slowly removed metal while keeping all the crisp lines. It takes more time but I feel it is the correct way to restore a blade. Good luck on your next one! Keep on keeping on!
-
11-15-2015, 03:09 AM #26
-
11-15-2015, 04:42 AM #27
Oh I've worked on a considerable amount before I touched this one to a buffer... I get it, I messed up on this razor, shit sucks trust me... On the other end I paid $8 on this razor and yes I certainly may have been able to make an extra hundred or two but in the end that's what I bought these razors for to learn.... This just happened to be a lesson that hit my pocket more than I would have liked...
-
11-15-2015, 04:47 AM #28
Here is the brass wedge I made for it
Maybe to recoup some of that loss I took on the over buffing I put a brass lined wedge on it
Still think this will be a fun auction since the winner can pick their poison in a sense... Still look forward to the result
-
11-15-2015, 04:49 AM #29
Oh and I keep a glass of ice water when I'm on the buffer... One pass then I dip, it's a a lot of dipping but it's better than ruining a temper...
-
11-15-2015, 04:54 AM #30
All in all..... If selling these razors..... You'll make your money back and then some. Sometimes when people see " FBU", they go nuts! Good luck on the sale.
Is it over there or over yonder?