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Thread: Restoring blades

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    Chaplain andrewmurray86's Avatar
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    Default Restoring blades

    Hey all!

    I am curious to know what technique y'all use to get that real nice mirror finish on a blade?

    I had an old Bengall that I sanded by handed from around 200 grit right down to 2000 grit but it took forever.

    Surely there are some faster and more efficient ways?

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    Truth is weirder than any fiction.. Grazor's Avatar
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    Hey Andrew, have done a few with a dremel. It takes a deft hand but saves a lot of time. You have to be careful though not to pick up the edge and trash the whole razor.
    Into this house we're born, into this world we're thrown ~ Jim Morrison

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    Senior Member decraew's Avatar
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    I use a jeweler's lathe with 3M bristle discs.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Just remember faster is not always better. A good thing is worth the wait. You may have put in a lot of hours but with a dremel all can be lost in the blink of an eye.
    lz6, RezDog and Chevhead like this.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Well, not starting with 200 grit helps, seriously restoration begins at purchase. Buy the best razors you can afford and start sanding at 600, your scratches are easy to remove, deep 200 grit scratches are hard to remove.

    You can go to buffing, with greasless, but it is dangerous and there is a large learning curve, you can easily ruin a razor.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    In the words of Glen, "rush a restore and ruin a blade" There are combination methods that seem to work well for me for doing restorations. I do not often go for the mirror finish though. I hand sand a lot, I use the vibratory tumbler and I use a buffer. The buffer sees much less of the process than the other two methods. It is very easy to round out all the lines and edges on a razor with a buffer. Perhaps buy a lot of junkers to practice with.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Yea, I find myself hand sanding more and buffing less, more for final finish than with greasless.

    Good paper and good hard backer makes a big difference. Cut into small strips and change often, use oil at the higher grits.

    You really do need to make a plan... before you begin.

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    Chaplain andrewmurray86's Avatar
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    Cheers lads.

    The finish is very nice on the Bengall. Some of the deeper pitting remains but nice nonetheless.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Substance's Avatar
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    I go to 5k then autosol etc
    20 plus hours for hand sanding a bad blade seams normal now.

    but damn the greaseless works so much quicker but has the potential to chew the steel out at any divots so a compromise has to be made quality for speed
    Last edited by Substance; 11-18-2015 at 09:52 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Substance View Post
    I go to 5k then autosol etc
    20 plus hours for hand sanding a bad blade seams normal now.

    but damn the greaseless works so much quicker but has the potential to chew the steel out at any divots so a compromise has to be made quality for speed
    Good on ya for working the sandpaper. It is hard work on the fingers but can preserve the angles and contours of the razor. Greaseless compound is fast but tends to round everything out and leaves the metal looking "soft". CrOx or jewelers paste on the buffing wheel is less aggressive and nicely follows the 2000 grit sandpaper with less risk of rounding out the corners and angles.
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