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Thread: Pinning my first razor
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05-20-2007, 08:46 AM #1
thanks
Well thanks but for all I know this is how everyone does it.
I'm not really sure since I just sat there and stared at the razor till I had an idea...................
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got one !
Then I posted it here !!!
Maybe someone has a better method??
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05-21-2007, 09:40 PM #2
For making the peened end, I clip off a section of brass rod (I've always wondered if wire-hangers would work or would be too soft a metal), and clamp it into the mandril (sp?) end of my dremel. Then with one hand I slowly turn the rod while with the other I tap the head rounded....
That hole in the barstock idea (for removing the pin by drilling) is a purdy good one!
C utz
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05-22-2007, 05:52 PM #3
Bill's CD shows how to make a little peening clamp out of a pair of pliers. These are also pretty cool ideas, and probably simpler if you don't have the tools to grind a pair of pliers smooth...
Josh
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05-24-2007, 01:01 PM #4
I watched Bill's CD, too. In his section on pinning, I was interested in the instrument he used while flattening the brass rod. In the CD he had forgotten the name of it. I emailed him with the question; here was his response:
"You can use a 3/32 woodworking "nail set". I think that's what you may be talking about. The other thing is to dish out a spot on the top of a hobby anvil about 3/32 in diameter and a 1/16th deep. Put the indentation about a quarter inch from the edge of the anvil. Use the round head of a small ball peen hammer to mushroom the pin. Make sure the hammer head is polished and also make sure you only tap the pin, not hit it. It make take 100 hits to spread the pin. After pinning a few razors you will get the hang of it."
I like the idea of putting an indentation in the anvil. Notice he says to TAP THE PIN, not whack it.
* The last comment was for BPatton, not you EarlLast edited by zepplin; 05-24-2007 at 01:05 PM. Reason: I forgot to quailify my last sentence
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05-24-2007, 08:00 PM #5
Turns out there is a thing called a riviting anvil. They sell them at crafts stores, and are exactly what has been described above...
... Except they have holes for a bunch of diffrent gage wires, and only cost 10-15 bucks. Turns out it pays to have a mom that does crafts
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05-25-2007, 03:05 AM #6
- Join Date
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Thanked: 5I haven't seen he CD and have never made a pin so excuse my simple questions. In the above description, is the indentation being used to hold the pin while you form the mushroom the other end or is the indentation being used to produce the shape of the mushroom end (kinda like a cake mold)? if it's the second option what is being being used to hold the pin? if you held the pin with your fingers, surely both ends on the pin would mushroom? and is there any importance in using the round end of a ball peen hammer? couldn't you use a small hammer or a spoon or something?
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05-25-2007, 02:19 PM #7
I have, yet, to do a pinning job, but I believe the indentation in the anvil helps to secure the bottom side, keeping it vertical as possible, while he is flattening the top side. The brass is cut to extend 1/16" on either side, thus, the reason for the indentation to be 1/16" deep. - also, helping to round the bottom side as he flattens the top. Bill holds the punch, (3/32" nail set), which has a dimple on the end, and the scales with his left hand as he taps with the ball peen hammer. He then reverses and does the other side. The dimpled nail set just helps to round the finished product. Why the ball peen hammer, instead of a flat? - I am guessing for better control of his tapping motion? Maybe some of our machinests can answer that one.
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05-25-2007, 07:05 PM #8
I'm not a machinest or claim to understand tools, however (my understanding and experience with making/repinning scales), with the ballpeen hammer, as you tap around the end of the pin, you have more of a grazing hit. Which, as you hit around the edge of the pin, causes a spreading of the brass/nickel to mushroom out.
You could get away with using the flat side of the hammer (albeit more tricky) if you were to do the same grazing-light tap. However, you run the chance of hitting the pin straight on and causing the force to bend the pin.
So, you do not tap the pin straight on, but around the edges... the rounded (peened side) of the hammer helps with the 'grazed hit'.. And yes, the rounded end of a spoon could be used as well, with the same tapping method as used for the ballpeen hammer. While this does take longer, it is also a little 'safer' since you do not have the weight of the hammer, which would could bend the pin if hit too hard or straight on...
(I'll sit down now)
C utzLast edited by C utz; 05-25-2007 at 07:08 PM.