Thread: Best way to get rid of rust spider/ and pitting on a restore razor

Hi Wat is the best way to get rid of spider rust and pitting
On a razor I am restoring
hand sand/ bench polish
both
any.help much we'll come
robert

Good photos first and then members can advise.

Okay
will try tomorrow is a 4 of. Clock start for me so in the afternoon
will try then
I have about 15 of them
many thanks
bobby66

Originally Posted by bobby66

Okay
will try tomorrow is a 4 of. Clock start for me so in the afternoon
will try then
I have about 15 of them
many thanks
bobby66

Nice straight razors.....
Well first off.... sanding. Start at a higher grit and see what happens. The lower the grit, the more aggressive it will on the blade. Also leaves deeper marks. That's why I said start at a higher grit and work down if needed. Take your time and work it until you like what you are seeing.

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Originally Posted by bobby66

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It is most likely that you will have to do some sanding. You can clean them first with steel wool or a single edge razor blade and get some of the major gunk off first. I think that all those razors have some serious issues except the small full hollow. I trust by the question that these are your first project. They are not very good beginner projects. The larger hollow ground need to have a bevel set before you put very much work in to it because of the level of rust at the bevel on the back side. It needs to be ground back far enough to find good steel. Two of the frame backs have geometry issues and will be difficult for you to asses and repair at this point. The outside frame back looks to be fairly rusty and will also need a bevel set before you do much with it. See if you can get the small hollow ground leaned up with some 000 steel wool and WD-40. It is likely your best candidate for recovery.

Originally Posted by Willisf

Nice straight razors.....
Well first off.... sanding. Start at a higher grit and see what happens. The lower the grit, the more aggressive it will on the blade. Also leaves deeper marks. That's why I said start at a higher grit and work down if needed. Take your time and work it until you like what you are seeing.

I prefer to start with a high grit and only move down if necessary. My reasoning for this is that using lower grits leaves a lot of room to loose medal that you don't need to loose. Very important to prevent loosing blade etchings.

Start with steel wool and metal polish and see where you get. You might be surprised. The heavier red rust will need some wet/dry sandpaper