Thread: Drilling a jewelers block

I got one of these.

Amazon.com: SE JT34443SB Steel Bench Block, 4" x 3/4" x 4": Home Improvement

I'd like to use it to tap pins out of a razor i'm working on but it doesn't have any holes in it.

There was a thread i saw where someone was explaining exactly what size and depth holes to drill in one of these for pinning and unpinning but I cant find that darn thread..

I figure for unpinning, the hole just has to be over 1/16 but i remember seeing a very specific size and depth for the pinning process.

I'm going to buy some cobalt bits tomorrow at the Depot and i'm wondering 1. which size to get and 2. what size hole sizes should i drill in the jewelers block, and even where if there is a strategic location.

Any help is appreciated, as always.

Actually it is better to drill off one end of the pin with a drill press or a Dremel and small burr. Then gently lift off one scale, then the blade.

If you try to drive the pin through, you run the risk of breaking the back scale if the pin is slightly bent, which they often are.

I was unsuccessful in drilling my bench block because it had been hardened. I ended up getting a riveting anvil similar to this one and mirror polishing the surface to protect the scales:

Amazon.com: EURO TOOL (ANV-170.00) Hexagonal Anvil with 15 Holes & 5 Milled Slots: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

If you are going to drill out the pin with a drill press do not use a common drill bit. They walk too much and it will run off center. Even if you choke up on it in the chuck. Use a machine center drill #2 size. Back with a wood block in your vise. Make a concave depression in the block for the back collar to rest in and allow the scales to sit flat. File the top of the pin flat as a starting point for the center drill. I also just use a block of hardwood with a 1/4 inch hole drilled when using a pin punch. The hole size is so if the back collar follows the pin it will not bend. Many times the pin is swollen or bent. Depth I never measured but I think 1/2" would be sufficient. The wood will not mar the scales. Lots of things to be careful of when un-pinning a razor so as not to damage the scales. I recommend you read the sticky section for un-pinning scales. You'll find some folks do not recommend using a drill press at all. When the collar comes loose from the scales it can spin and mark the scales.
Good luck. Take it slow.

I was in the same position as you were a few months back, and ended up taking the plate to a friend with a drill press. As mentioned, the bit walked all over and I couldn't get enough even pressure to get the hole straight. I originally made the hole about 2 cm deep, but found that wasted rod and now my 1cm deep hole is perfect.
I am pretty sure I went for a 3/32 bit to allow a little room but not enough for the rod to slip or bend while I was peening. Once you get the hole drilled you will be amazed at how well something so small can make a task like peening so simple!!

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Actually it is better to drill off one end of the pin with a drill press or a Dremel and small burr. Then gently lift off one scale, then the blade.

If you try to drive the pin through, you run the risk of breaking the back scale if the pin is slightly bent, which they often are.

Ok ill remember that. I've seen a few tutorials that use the tap out method but this sounds like a gentler way.

Originally Posted by karlej

You'll find some folks do not recommend using a drill press at all. When the collar comes loose from the scales it can spin and mark the scales.
Good luck. Take it slow.

I'm not going to use a press. The cobalt bits are specifically to try to put a dimple my jewelers block. I used a cutting wheel last night to shave the tops of the pins away, then I tried tapping them out off the end of my block. They didn't really budge.. Ill try using a wood block with a hole in it if I cant pry them off as stated above.

Originally Posted by Ernie1980

1cm deep hole is perfect.. 3/32 bit

Thanks!!

You don't save the collars?

My method is to file a flat spot, take a split point drill bit in a pin vice and start my hole, to the drill press with the center drill and hold the razor in my hand and push the pin up to the spinning bit. By hand holding it allows me the ability to move the hole slightly if needed. As the hole gets very close to the collar I stop and finish by hand with the pin vice. If you go too far on the center bit there is a 50/50 chance of the collar surviving. In my razor work area I have a small counter top drill press that does all I need it to do and they are not a big expense but super duper handy.

Originally Posted by karlej

If you are going to drill out the pin with a drill press do not use a common drill bit. They walk too much and it will run off center. Even if you choke up on it in the chuck. Use a machine center drill #2 size. Back with a wood block in your vise. Make a concave depression in the block for the back collar to rest in and allow the scales to sit flat. File the top of the pin flat as a starting point for the center drill. I also just use a block of hardwood with a 1/4 inch hole drilled when using a pin punch. The hole size is so if the back collar follows the pin it will not bend. Many times the pin is swollen or bent. Depth I never measured but I think 1/2" would be sufficient. The wood will not mar the scales. Lots of things to be careful of when un-pinning a razor so as not to damage the scales. I recommend you read the sticky section for un-pinning scales. You'll find some folks do not recommend using a drill press at all. When the collar comes loose from the scales it can spin and mark the scales.
Good luck. Take it slow.

You can use a common drill bit, but you need create a starter divot. I use a very small ball end bit in my Dremel. I got this tip from a thread mycarver did away back. Works great.

Originally Posted by RezDog

My method is to file a flat spot, take a split point drill bit in a pin vice and start my hole, to the drill press with the center drill and hold the razor in my hand and push the pin up to the spinning bit. By hand holding it allows me the ability to move the hole slightly if needed. As the hole gets very close to the collar I stop and finish by hand with the pin vice. If you go too far on the center bit there is a 50/50 chance of the collar surviving. In my razor work area I have a small counter top drill press that does all I need it to do and they are not a big expense but super duper handy.

Same way here