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Thread: few questions before i dive in
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05-25-2007, 04:36 AM #1
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Saskatchewan, Canada
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- 878
Thanked: 5few questions before i dive in
so i'm getting ready to take my first steps into restoration and have a few quick questions:
what is the common size for making pins? I seem to remember seeing 1/16" was the recommended size and a quick check with a ruler seems to verify but i just want to mak sure
what are the best metals to use for making pins? the popular suggestion seems to be brass, but what about aluminum or stainless steel?
what size tubing should be used to make collars for the pin? it obviously should be slightly larger than 1/16" to fit over the pin. when i look online for different size tubes, the size is listed as diameter and i don't know whether that means diameter of the hole in the tubing, or the diameter of the tube itself. any help here?
anyone have a quick method for making pivot bearings? what thickness should they be?
what is your prefered size for felt polishing wheels for use with a dremel? right now i've only experiemented with the 1/2" and 1" wheels that came with the tool. i like the control i have with the 1/2" but they seem to dissapear pretty fast
anyone know where i can find a piece of brass thick enough to use for a wedge? (either online or what kind of store where one might typically find it locally)
whats the best way to straighten a set of scales. I was thinking of dunking them in boiling water then flattening them. I've heard this used with success. How long do they need to be boiled?
thanks in advance
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05-25-2007, 12:21 PM #2
This is where the satisfaction factor really comes out.. Nothing better than shaving with a blade you did a full resto on. I'll try to answer as much as I can..
1) 1/16" brass is the norm. Aluminium/inox would be too hard to peen.
2) IIRC, it's 3/32. However, most times I use #0W washers on the inside and #0 on the outside. The tubing usually needs to be ground down a bit before you can use it as a collar.. Big hassle.
3) I use the 1" wheel but I have no problems with using the 1/2" as well. 1" gives you more even coverage on large surfaces (like blades).
4) Even a short immersion in boiling water will make celluloid very pliable. I didn't get good results from it, but even if you save 1 in 5 scales with that method, it's worth the trouble.
Sorry, I can't help on sourcing the brass and I have no idea what you mean by "pivot bearings"
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05-25-2007, 12:45 PM #3
I get brass bar flats (1/8" thickness x 1.25" wide) from here:
http://www.speedymetals.com/c-7723-360.aspx
Good luck and have fun!
-Steve
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05-25-2007, 05:58 PM #4
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Saskatchewan, Canada
- Posts
- 878
Thanked: 5by bearings i simply meant the inner washers...thats what classicshaving called them in their set
so if inox/aluminum would be too hard to use for pins, is there a suitable material with a nice silver colour. it's not a big deal since brass looks just fine to me...but for the sake of variety. the Dovo set at classic is made of "german silver"
i have no idea whatsoever what the #0W and #0 washers look like (though i like the idea of just buying something that can be used right away rather than making collars and washers. are these more specialty washers that would be found in a hobby store, or can you find them at a regular department store?
i have a set of C-Mon scales that are very nice indeed, but are warped something fierce. i'm thinking boiling may be the only way to salvage them
thanks for the source for brass bars! very nice
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05-25-2007, 09:05 PM #5
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05-25-2007, 10:28 PM #6
Nickel welding stock should do the trick. Speaking of which, I'll have to give the stuff that Tony H. sent me a shot. It's been sitting there for almost a year lol.