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Thread: W&B Wedge with bad regrind
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02-01-2016, 06:19 PM #1
W&B Wedge with bad regrind
I purchased this W&B wedge from ebay. I knew it had been reground from the pictures - it looked far to good and the blade had lost some width in the process of getting to good steel. What I didn't expect was that the regrind was so bad that it completely screwed up the geometry on the blade. Kind of a lopsided triangle and nothing is flat.
I have it out to a machinist to see if he can bring it back into proper geometry on a milling machine. At this point the blade won't even lay flat on a stone so there's really no point in trying to hone it. I paid very little for it but the seller refunded about 40% immediately when I complained and asked for a 40% refund because it wasn't worth what I paid. So - to his credit, he refunded what I asked immediately and told me he would make it right if that wasn't satisfactory. At least I got a good seller in a buyer-be-ware market on ebay - that's rare. I would post more pictures but I didn't snap any before getting it to the machinist. His initial impression was that he would have to take down the lopsided side which would shorten the overall width a little bit more. Given the size - do think this will be OK?
Thanks for any advice - I've asked the machinist to wait until I tell him to give it a try.
AdamLast edited by aalbina; 02-01-2016 at 06:27 PM. Reason: removed price information IAW forum norms
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02-01-2016, 07:21 PM #2
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Thanked: 13245Honestly I am not seeing a "Re-grind" from those pics, looks more like a Restore but pics can be deceiving..
I would put 3 layers of tape on the spine and do a few laps to see where the bevel line is before I thought about getting rid of a nice heavy grind Sheffield..
JMHO but once that steel is gone it is gone for good so make sure it really needs a re-grind before you do one/have one done..
Many of the older thicker Sheffield's do not sit perfectly on the hones,,
My Opinion based on two pics that I can see
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
Geezer (03-01-2016)
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02-01-2016, 07:41 PM #3
id be afraid of letting just any machinist tackle a job like that, better off with somebody with skill in grinding blades. gssixgun knows his stuff, go with his advice.JMHO
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The Following User Says Thank You to tintin For This Useful Post:
gssixgun (02-01-2016)
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02-01-2016, 08:26 PM #4
Yeah - I wish I had taken more pictures. I can ask the machinist to take some for me but the geometry issues can be easily seen with the naked eye. I wouldn't expect a 200 year old razor to be perfect but this is pretty obvious. I did as you suggested with 2 layers of tape before I sent it off and with a bit of time on the 1K - the lines on the blade are all over the place. I took off the tape and ran a few passes so I could see what the spine looked like and it was clearly not flat. I'll see if I can get some pictures so you can really assess what's going on. I appreciate the help.
Adam
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02-01-2016, 08:29 PM #5
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Thanked: 3226I was waiting to see if somebody with more knowledge than I have would answer to see if they saw what I think I saw. I did not think it was a regrind either but a restore on a heavy grind W&B razor. The old Sheffields I have restored for my own use have their fair share of warps and twists that need different honing strokes to make them shave ready. Personally, I don't think it needs a regrind but just somebody who really knows how to hone well.
Normally geometry in reference to a straight razor means the width of the spine relative to the width of the blade which gives you the bevel angle using a formula. It has nothing to do with whether the blade sits flat on a hone.
I would not have a machinist work on it but find someone who is good at honing these finicky type razors.
BobLife is a terminal illness in the end
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02-01-2016, 08:37 PM #6
Not a true re-grind at all.
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02-01-2016, 08:47 PM #7
OK - thanks - I am listening to all the advice. I've told the machinist to hold until I give the OK, pending the advice I get here. On a wedge, wouldn't it be important for both sides - spine to blade - to be the same length? How could I possibly set a bevel on a hone when the blade itself isn't centered between the sides of the spine? The blade sort of looks like this (of course I'm exaggerating):
I'm not arguing with good advice - I'm trying to understand. I've been here long enough to see people argue until they get the answer they were looking for in the first place - that's not the case with me.
Adam
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02-01-2016, 08:57 PM #8
You've heard form some really knowledgeable men. If it were mine i would take there advice.
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02-01-2016, 09:00 PM #9
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Thanked: 55Have a few with that shape. As long as the angles are correct it makes no difference honing. And with one or two that pic wouldn't be an exaggeratioon.
Last edited by dmnc; 02-01-2016 at 09:03 PM.
"Ignorance is preferable to error, and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing than he who believes what is wrong."-Thomas Jefferson (Notes on Virginia, 1782)
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02-01-2016, 09:37 PM #10
OK - very interesting. I only have a year or so experience honing - so it is more likely that I am the problem. Thanks for the advice.
Adam